Highlights
- Once in a lifetime chimpanzee experience
- Utterly remote location
- Luxurious lodge
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Greystoke Mahale is a one of a kind camp in the wilderness of West Tanzania. Set on the shore of the beautiful Lake Tanganyika, with a backdrop of towering mountains that make up the Mahale Mountains National Park; this is one of our favourite camps in Africa.
A tiny sanctuary surrounded by stunning natural beauty this camp is famously brilliant. Run by Nomad Tanzania, a long established safari operation with a reputation for excellent safari guiding, this is one of the only places travellers can come for the best chimpanzee viewing in Africa.
Chimp trekking is the motivation behind the opening and running of this lodge, and it really is spectacular. Expert guides lead you through untouched forests every day to spend an hour fascinated by the daily lives of the habituated chimpanzees. With rarely more than twenty travellers in the whole park this feels like a personal adventure and emphasises the specialness of this experience.
As with all animal trekking, it is variable and unpredictable where the animals may be active on any given day. You may only need to walk to the forest edge to be in the midst of the chimp family or it may be a 6 hour trek along steep and slippery mountain trails. Therefore, good fitness and proper walking boots are a must, and we recommend only families with children mature enough to enjoy this plan a visit.
Other activities from camp include snorkelling, fishing,kayaking and sun downers sailing on the lake; guaranteeing an unforgettable experience.
The uniqueness of the location can render it slightly inaccessible and guests should expect around a 4 hour flight in a small plane and an hour boat ride before reaching camp. Upon arrival, the main mess is the focal point of the camp and the only structure that can be seen from the Lake. An unusual, open structure this is a great place to enjoy meals and to watch the sunset from the lamp-lit bar.
Six large guest suites are tucked away on the forest line, with panoramic views of the golden beach and the crystal clear lake beyond. Constructed almost entirely from sustainable materials, they blend into the natural surroundings and offer guests the feeling of being a part of the forest. Across a short boardwalk is the bathroom with hot and cold running water, shower and toilet. Behind the cottage is a personal dressing room and upstairs, a ‘chill out deck’.
The lodge itself has a minimum age of 8 years old for children. However, for their own safety, children under 12 are not permitted on chimp treks and may not even be allowed into the forest depending on the season. For this reason we would only recommend this trip to families with older children as it is such a long way to go for some family members not to be able to participate.
The breath taking setting alone would be reason enough to visit Greystoke Mahale, but paired with the unique chance to see chimps in their natural habitat; this is really an experience we cannot recommend enough.
Nicola and I had a brilliant time - the weather made it pretty
challenging at times, but Mustafa and Mohammed looked after us
superbly. We loved the variety of scenery and places - as you mention,
the only downside is the rubbish in the villages, such a shame. The
meals that Mohammed drummed up on the hillside tracks were amazing - I
am glad we knew that our mule would eat the leftovers because there was
no way we could finish them! The standard of the breakfasts were far in
excess of the bread and jam you mentioned, even in the basic gite which
was freezing - we were warm once in bed, but the temperature in the
living room was a bit depressing after a very windy descent, sitting
wrapped in coats, hats and blankets while we waited for our dinner! The
sleeping bags provided were excellent and we were toasty with our fleece
liners and an extra blanket. We were very grateful that Mustafa's boss
upgraded us to the eco lodge the next night (don't know whether this was
because of the gale force winds on our descent the day before...) - it
was lovely.We were incredibly lucky with precipitation - although we were walking
in a few inches of snow on day one and it absolutely poured that night,
we experienced no rain during the day until we were lining up for our
farewell photo at our pickup point, when the heavens opened!Due to the weather, I think I'd describe the terrain slightly
differently - a few good paths, but often we were on very stony ground,
slippery wet mud (oh, that clay does stick to one's boots!), slidy thin
gravel or else just making our way down a hill after rain had washed the
original route away. Occasionally we walked short distances on roads,
which Mustafa was apologetic about, but it was hardly the M6! We took
our time and never felt unsafe, but people with dodgy knees or hips
might need to be careful. Mustafa looked after us very carefully in the
high wind gusts (as a sailor, I reckon at least Force 9 - over 50 mph on
a bare hillside), promising Nicola that he wouldn't let her mother blow
away!Although we needed to be back in Marrakech on the fourth night, I think
if I were going again, I would prefer to trek for four days and spend 3
in Marrakech, which I found a bit overwhelming, but this is just
personal taste!Our room in Daar Housnia was lovely, and we appreciated the heating -
the rest of the building is definitely built for summer! There seemed
to be some confusion over our arrival - the manager said we had
originally been booked into the downstairs suite with double bed and
bath in the middle of the room, but that he thought it was more suitable
"for two ladies, not a couple" to upgrade us to exactly the room you had
shown us photos of! The breakfasts were delicious. The wifi was fine
for Nicola's meetings.
Monica S
reviewing Morocco Trek & Marrakech Holiday
on 16 February 2026
We had such a good holiday. You did a fantastic job!
The house in Marrakesh was ridiculous. We effectively had it to ourselves. The accommodation was borderline palatial.
I actually think that the time we had in Marrakesh was sufficient. We could potentially have done a day by a pool but I think we’d done enough souk-ing by the end of Day Two.
The hotel in the mountains was a shade more rustic than I was expecting, but all great fun. Stunning views. The guide / mule / cook team were excellent and our guide (Hassan) tailored the treks to our capabilities well. He was superb, and really made an effort with the kids. The second and third day of trekking were particularly good. Such an adventure for the kids.
All the logistics worked seamlessly. Every aspect went like clockwork. Top marks. The advice on tipping was also much appreciated (I hate thinking that I’m getting mugged off or am potentially not giving enough…).
From my seven-year-old son:
I thought it was GREAT. The food was amazing and the culture was very interesting. My favourite bit was scrambling up rocks in the Atlas Mountains.
In retrospect, I’d probably do the trip in reverse. Flopping on the roof terrace after the rigours of the mountains would have been even more satisfying.
Henry O
reviewing Boutique Marrakech & Atlas Mountains
on 05 June 2025
We had an extraordinary time. It was magical and we couldn't hav asked or hoped for more. Thank you both so much for all of your time and assistance.
Emma M
reviewing Best of Botswana for Families
on 18 November 2024