I’m not sure what it was about my holiday in Vietnam that totally captured my heart. True, this is a country with some seriously big hitting highlights; The imposing fortress at Hue, the quaint and charming Hoi an, the fascinating Cu Chi tunnels and, of course, two boat trips not to be missed - a Halong Bay junk cruise to admire the limestone rock formations in the north and, at the south of the country, a boat trip on the Mekong Delta.

Stepping back from this list of obvious highlights, it is the subtle charms of Vietnam that really left a deep impression on me. The seductive scent of incense burning, the smoke billowing in the air. The sight of water buffalo working in the fields, white birds perched on their backs. This, juxtaposed with an implausible amount of mopeds, and good food at every corner, from upmarket restaurants to plastic chairs at the side of the road forming a makeshift bar where home brewed beer can be enjoyed.  

But probably the best thing about travelling in Vietnam, is that you really don’t have to go far off the beaten track before you find your own slice of Vietnam heaven. Tourists tend to congregate around the main sites and back packers stick to their end of town (never the twain shall meet…) so it’s actually quite easy to get away from other Westerners without having to be a hardcore intrepid travelling type!

So, here are some of my favourite memories from my holiday in Vietnam where we managed to get an off the beaten track experience, whilst remaining on the beaten track!

Sapa – An easy overnight rain ride to this beautiful hill town, near to China’s border in north east Vietnam.  Home to local hill tribes, lush terraces, colourful markets and a slightly cooler climate, it is a welcome respite to a weary traveller.  Don’t be misled, there are tourists here, but the people who come don’t tend to be the in your face travellers – they are all looking to soak up the more laid back atmosphere. You have the option of staying in a homestay or in a hotel to suit any budget. You can then get out trekking in the countryside. It is possible to get away from everyone else and not see another soul. We went off without a guide and got hopelessly lost, we survived to tell the tale, but, in retrospect, a guided trek might have been a good idea.

Mui Ne – Nha Trang is a popular beach destination in South Vietnam. The upmarket tourists enjoy the beach resorts serving sandwiches and chips, whilst the backpackers head out on boat trips and then float in rubber rings swigging beer and dodgy cocktails. This was not really my favourite place in the world.  Head south and you reach the quieter Mui Ne. Other travellers present? Of course. There are smarter hotels and bamboo huts here, as well as mid range bungalows. The key to this place is its vibe. The sandy beach has that classic laid back South East Asian atmosphere, relaxed and chilled out. The more active can enjoy watersports or slide on plastic sledges at the local sand dunes, others can read, stare at the horizon or pretend to write deep thoughts in their travel journal. Food options vary from chilled out cafes serving food right next to the beach and more upmarket options serving wine.  Our most memorable meal was eating at a local café followed by several beers and teaching the owners the words to Ronan Keating’s hits.

Hue – this is a stop on pretty much every visitor’s itinerary on their holiday in Vietnam and rightly so. The impressive fortress, partially destroyed in the war, serves as a reminder both of Vietnam’s troubled past and also the resilience of the people.  From Hue, most people are offered the option of a cruise on the Perfume River. Higher end tourists will probably enjoy a sunset dinner cruise, whilst backpackers will pile into a boat in a flock of at least 10 and will then motor noisily (and slightly obnoxiously) past the former. We decided to get a boat all to ourselves, which was the best decision we could have possible made. We kicked back and watched the scenery pass by and then stopped off along the way to visit the Thien Mu Pagoda and the royal tombs. There were other tourists at the sites we stopped off at, but the chance to go at our own pace with friendly hosts made the trip all the sweeter.

Ho Chi MInh City -the city formerly know as Saigon is, for many, the starting point for a tour of this country. If you find yourself here, don't just confine yourself to the backpacking area or the key sites. Get yourself onto a moped (travel insurance recommended) and head down to one of the restaurants serving a traditional Vietnamese hotpot or barbecue. On your table will be a mini barbecue and you will be presented with raw food to cook. A great fun experience. There was a real mix of local families out for a meal together and only a couple of other tourists around as well, but most importantly, the food was delicious!

Hanoi  - I couldn't write a blog post about Vietnam without mentioning my all time favourite city, Hanoi. Before you ask, yes we too went to the water puppet show and we went to visit 'uncle Ho' in his mausoleum. We are not immune to tourist sites! What I loved the most about Hanoi was the intriguing streets to wander round - they have their fair share of tourist shops, but you still get to experience the buzz of a city which comes alive at night. Sitting on a street corner, balanced precariously on a plastic stool whilst mopeds whizzed by and enjoying some home brewed beer... heaven.

For some more ideas of places to go in Vietnam, check out our collection of independent Vietnam tours.