The Western Cape holidays

Along the dirt tracks of Masiphumelele, we arrive at the bicycle shop, stocked with imported, second-hand bikes and operated by local residents. One of the first things I notice is a striking mural, which graces the walls of one of the containers. ‘This was painted by the children,’ our guide, Mzwamadoda Zwai explains proudly. ‘This was painted by the children?’ I gasp. In fact, all of these containers comprise an entire complex for the youth including; a sewing centre, a small church, an arts and crafts centre and the bicycle shop itself.

We are each handed sublime, old fashioned bikes with long, curved handle bars, which you have to pedal backwards to brake. After a rusty start (it’s been years since I’ve ridden a bike!), we are soon cycling through the streets of Masiphumelele, with nothing to separate us from the shacks, houses, dirt tracks and local people. I already feel part of the experience.

I don’t believe in God, but I’m smiling. I can’t help it

Our first stop is a Sunday church service and we can hear the rumble of gospel, beckoning from within. We take a seat at the back and observe throngs of people of all ages, in joyous song; dancing and clapping with such energy. When the church leader orders everybody to shake hands with, or hug the person next to them, we are no longer voyeurs, but have folded into this scene. The congregation are shaking us by the hand and offering a warm embrace. ‘I know you,’ one woman says to me, ‘You have a familiar face’. I don’t believe in God, but I’m smiling. I can’t help it. I glance around and the rest of the tour group are too.

If doctors can’t heal your ailments, an African traditional healer can

Our second stop in the township of Masiphumelele is the home of a sangoma (an African traditional healer). We cycle past a local shebeen – the music is pumping and loud, in stark contrast to the church from which we have just come. Off road, we dismount and our walk takes us through a myriad of dirt roads and small shacks. It’s raining heavily and large puddles block the majority of our paths. I’m wondering if these shacks suffer flooding when the rain hits. My thoughts are broken as we reach the home of the sangoma.

This is where you come if doctors can’t heal your ailments; be it physical, emotional or spiritual. We are sat on wooden benches around a low-lit, bare room. A woman sits in a corner with a drum whilst a young traditional healer emerges (the traditional healer’s daughter). ‘Welcome,’ she says. Welcome is also written in many different languages on the walls.

Mzwamadoda is teaching us some Xhosa words, but we struggle with the pronunciation. It doesn’t come naturally to us to make sounds with the back of the throat at the same time as vowel sounds. We simply don’t have the linguistic coordination. Mzwamadoda offers to translate my questions, as the sangoma doesn’t speak English.

She is wearing an intricate headdress with tassels, which she tells me takes a full day to make. Her ancestors spoke to her and told her to make the headdress in the colours of red, blue and white. It is these beads that let her know when someone is coming and, thanks to her ancestors, she already knows what is wrong with a person, before they tell her. The bells on her feet act as a drum, when she dances to evoke her ancestors. Although the role of traditional healer is largely inherent in her community, they have been known to share their art with other traditional healers. Beneath the costume and dancing, the piercing eyes of a wise woman peer out. I stare back at her, wondering what it must be like to possess such ability.

Masiphumelele: ‘We shall succeed’

Our third and final stop is Charlotte’s Place – a small, but cozy shack which she shares with her granddaughter, Tamika. We huddle in from the rain and sit in her living room, sipping on welcome cups of tea (a detox tea, grown in the Cederberg Mountains) and nibbling on delicious chunks of Vetkoek. Charlotte recalls her childhood – her mother was a domestic worker for an Israeli family in Tamboerskloof, so Charlotte grew up in a large house, dining on mussels and herring, and playing with children from a local boarding school. When the Israeli family left, they bought her family a house in Mitchell’s Plein to thank them for their hard work. Township life, in contrast, took a little getting used to for Charlotte.

Charlotte has been waiting for a house for a long time. She doesn’t work full time, which is what is required to qualify for housing, and her job as a tourist guide is seasonal. Despite this, she would never leave Masiphumelele, because she loves her community. It’s a community that shares, a community that toyi-toyi’s for better education for all and a community that campaigns to empower its women. In 2008, Masiphumelele was awarded the annual Reconciliation Award from the Institute of Justice and Reconciliation (IJR), in recognition of it’s efforts to live in peace with foreigners and resist violence. ‘Tamika is always asking ‘why?’ and ‘what?’’ exclaims Charlotte, ‘Perhaps she will become South Africa’s first female president.’

Before you think of typing ‘Xhosa customs’ into Wikipedia, or driving with your camera pressed against the glass of an air-conditioned bus, think of taking a bicycle tour of Noordhoek’s Masiphumelele instead. This great day tour is fully interactive and opens your eyes to age-old Xhosa customs and the township spirit of togetherness. It’s a unique opportunity to say: ‘I was there’.

Lisa Nevitt
Cape Town Magazine, 2010

CapeTownMagazine reviewing Township Tours by Bike

We're now back at home and I'm looking out at a rather wet Liverpool day, a great contrast from our marvellous few days in Cape Town. This is to thank you for being a wonderful guide for our trip to Stellenbosch and for enabling us to learn so much about South African wines in a short time - you've started us on a long journey, I think, and I've already got sawinesonline.co.uk saved in my favourites! I think you'll understand that Albie Koch was the stand out, although being able to tell the very good sommelier at the 12 Apostles that we'd met Jose Conde gave us more than a few brownie points! Can I also congratulate you on choosing Overture for our lunch? You'd obviously read us right from our e-mail correspondence, but how you managed to fix the weather is beyond us! This goes into our very best meals anywhere category, along with the breakfast on the shoreline of Lake Annecy and the dinner overlooking the Mediterranean at Eze, close to Monte Carlo. Exquisite combinations of setting, food and, of course, occasion.

You helped give Jill an introduction to South Africa that make us determined to return and see and learn more - thank you for this. We'll certainly recommend you to friends and would hope to make use of your services on another visit.

john reviewing Classic Cape Town wine tour

We just got back from our overnight stay. It was excellent. We could not have asked for nicer accommodation and the staff are wonderful.

We were treated to walks with giraffes and really enjoyed the cheetahs. It was unbelievable and a memory of a life time.

Kristen reviewing Overnight Safari from Cape Town

I have one word to describe my Cooking experience: AMAZING! What a fantastic experience! I must say that Pamela went above and beyond what she was required to do as a tour guide. She allowed me to pay once I arrived into Cape Town, met my husband and I at our convenience and gave us a ride back to our hotel from the Pic-n-Pay at the waterfront so we wouldn't have to walk with our groceries! She is not only friendly, but extremely knowledgeable and passionate about what is going on with the black community in Cape Town/Langa. I did two cooking classes and wished that I did all our tours through them, as they are so personal. I cooked with Gamidah in her home in Bo-Kapp for a Cape Malay cooking experience, then two days later I accompanied Pamela to the District 6 Museum where she recounted the history of Apartheid, then drove out to Langa where I was warmly greeted by Eugene, the instructor! What passion he has as well and what an amazing grassroots movement Eziko Restaurant/School is doing. I immediately knew I wanted to be a part of helping this movement succeed and will therefore be writing letters to guide books such as Lonely Planet, Rick Steves and such. I also plan on posting a review on Trip Advisor so the word can get out as to the amazing service and experience Cape Fusion provides at such a reasonable cost! I am recommending it to all my friends who will be in Cape Town for the World Cup.

EmilyM reviewing African Cooking Class Cape Town

We very much enjoyed the Ben Bikes Township Tour. Our guide was very friendly and knowledgeable and helped us get a glimpse into life in the Masi township. Seeing the township by bike was a unique and intimate experience. We found the township tour to be an important part of our trip to South Africa to gain an understanding and appreciation for how much of the population lives in these communities. The visit to the healer, the local businesswoman, and a local restaurant was a great experience.

Tracy reviewing Township Tours by Bike

The tour was absolutely brilliant, it was just the 2 of us, and we had the opportunity to meet and discuss with many people working on community projects in the townships all around Cape town. The guide was very friendly and knowledgeable!

celine reviewing Township Tour in Cape Town - Cape Care Route

As an inexperienced hiker I was worried that this would be too difficult for me. The experience was great, walking along the coast listening to whale song was fantastic! The guides were great, full of information about the native flora, and the barnecue was fantastic- almost as good as the sunset from the Cape! I recommend this to everyone! The hike was so much fun that my friend was hooked- he even gave up smoking (for the duration of the hike!) so that he could hike in the lead and see all the animals first!

PhilBer reviewing Overnight Cape Point Hike

A wonderful four days that far exceeded my expecations. Kevin is a great tour guide, good company, a great cook and everything was superbly organised. It was fantastic being able to tailor-make the trip in advance and I heartily recommend Afruka Eco Tours

stepcots reviewing Explore the Cederberg Wilderness Area

A fantastic 2 day hike through the varied landscape of the Cape with the outward and return journeys being entirely different. Magnificent sea views, wildlife, and the abundant flowering fynbos make for a unique experience and endless photo opportunities. Kevin's in depth knowledge and empathy with the area makes him an informative guide and great companion for the trip. We recommend it highly.

JohnT reviewing Overnight Cape Point Hike

First off, Kevin is one of the nicest people I met in Cape Town let alone in my life. A truly genuine and insightful person you can learn a lot from.. Not just about safaris and South Africa, but about geology, botany, engineering, politics, where to eat, where to stay, where/what car to rent, how to get to the airport, worth-while tours, red wine, white wine, other places to see, and the appreciation of nature and life!! Oh -- and then you get to the game reserve and see some of the most amazing animals on the planet.. An incredible experience, indeed! From the time you get picked up, to the time they drop you off at your hotel. Afruka tours and Kevin were some of the most accommodating and knowledgeable guides you could ask for.

jpd reviewing Overnight Safari from Cape Town

A great tour, very well organised with a really knowledgeable guide. The reserve is great and you'll get up close to lots of different animals with the benefit of an excellent park ranger. It's perfect if you only have a few days in Cape Town and I would definitely recommend Afruka tours if you are looking to do something a little bit different.

Mawgan reviewing Overnight Safari from Cape Town

I heard whale song as I walked among the coast through a trail set among the unique vegetation. At the coast I saw more whales than anywhere else, a mother and calf drifted slowly in the water. At the peninsula we watched a seal batter an octopus on the rocks then gobble it up.
The barbecue dinner at the hut was fantastic, even difficult vegetarians like me were catered for. The hot shower a welcome relief and the comfy cots a treat.
The next day we followed a family of ostrich (not intentionally) as they used the trail to make their journey.

Kevin makes a great guide, knows every inch of the cape and respects it. 10/10.

Dilbinder reviewing Overnight Cape Point Hike

It was an extraordinary experience in the beautiful and unique Cederberg area. We discovered not only the spectacular rock formations and Southern Africa San Rock painting art, but also a rich flora and wildlife. This is an amazing - and quite preserved - region, not so well known by foreign tourists, and at only 3h by car from Cape Town.
Last, by not least, our guide was just great !

Hélène, Olivier and Georges from Paris, France.

hbierne reviewing Explore the Cederberg Wilderness Area

Teniqua Treetops is magical. We stayed a couple of nights in Dec 07 and absolutely loved it. We overlooked a stunning pristine forested valley (even the bath overlooked the view!). So peaceful - birds and wildlife everywhere. Did some great hikes around the valley - we have some great photos of us looking very sweaty, lugging the little-uns up a steep path. tree-house was very well equipped, and the owners were really friendly. Couldn't recommend highly enough.

ben reviewing Treetop Lodges on the Garden Route