Walk the Speyside Way

Welcome to the land of salmon and whiskey! Lined with woodlands and quaint fishing villages, the River Spey passes through some of Scotland’s most majestic landscapes, including the foothills of the magical Cairngorm Mountains; follow its course with this five- to seven-day self-guided walk.

From its source at Loch Spay in the Corrieyairack Forest in the Scottish Highlands, the mighty River Spey rushes north-eastwards though woodlands and wetlands before emptying into the Moray Firth, 70 miles away. The river is the fastest flowing in Scotland, a product of high rainfall and snowmelt in its wide mountain catchment, which lends itself to excellent salmon and trout fishing; many of the riverside villages are still involved in the fishing industry, while Speyside distilleries produce more whiskey than any other region. It’s not only the food and drink that make the area special; the Cairngorm Mountains supply an awesome backdrop, while in the lower reaches of the river are the Insh Marshes, one of the most important wetlands in Europe and a twitcher’s paradise!

This five- to seven-day self-guided walk is the ideal way to explore this awesome region, its landscape, history and culture. Starting at the sleepy fishing village of Buckie on the rocky shores of the Moray Firth, you’ll follow the river’s course south-westwards, passing through the quaint hillside township of Fochabers and the equally picturesque town of Craigellachie, with its fine distillery. From there you have the option to walk the Dufftown Spur, where you’ll have a chance to visit the world-renowned Glenfiddich Distillery, and the Tomintoul Spur with its commanding views of the Cairngorm range. Finally, it’s on to storybook Grantown, nestled in ancient woodlands and home to a centuries-old smokehouse – and some pretty good smoked salmon! The Speyside Way is well marked, but if you want to make any side trips – to Telford Bridge, for example, of the Earth Pillars near Craigellachie – you can; you’ll be supplied with a detailed map and comprehensive guidebook, with loads of information on the river, the towns and their history. Then at the end of a leisurely day’s walking you can relax and enjoy some fine dining in the hand-picked bed and breakfasts, country inns and guesthouses dotted along the path – your bags will be waiting for you when you arrive.

The Speyside Way isn’t a particularly challenging walk – it’s fairly flat and very well signposted – but as for any hiking holiday you’ll need a good level of fitness and also some experience of hill walking. If it’s been a while since you’ve done regular exercise you might be better off trying a shorter walk first, perhaps two to three days. Then there’s the question of midges. Not really a problem when you’re walking and the breeze is blowing, but these small biting insects will probably hone on in you at some point, especially when you closest to the river. For most it’s only a minor irritation, but if you really can’t tolerate itching then maybe Speyside in summer isn’t the place for you! These walking holidays are best suited to adventurous lovers of landscape, those who prefer their paths unmarked and unpeopled. Foodies will enjoy the trip too – the hotels and guesthouse where you’ll be staying have been carefully chosen for their excellent dining (their rooms aren’t bad either!). And if you like whisky, well, think of this as a pilgrimage!