Locally-sourced adventure travel blog

The web is ruining travel

ben on 1st April 2010 | 4 comments

There are 918 travel blogs on Technorati and hundreds of travel forums and social networking sites. There is a bewildering level of choice and information and it is spoiling the joy of independent travel. 

The traditional vision of a fresh faced traveller waving goodbye at the airport gate with little more than an outbound ticket and a well thumbed guide book seem to be gone.  Instead, after weeks spent poring over the excellent Matador Network and the exhaustive Lonely Planet Thorntree, they'll arrive at the airport porting a hybrid backpack stuffed with netbook, adapters and iphone. By the time they step of the plane in Calcutta they will have read up on the hassle they can expect from all and sundry in the streets and will have adopted the trademark aloof backpacker body language - "I know what I'm doing, don't try to take me for a ride!" - there is no way will they be falling foul of the hawkers! And in doing so, they miss something, they miss making their own mistakes and discovering with fresh eyes.

Surely, the joy of travel is serendipity, spontaneity and in saying yes to every offer however bizarre?  Surely, it is about saying 'why not?' when a local claiming to be a university professor offers to guide you around the local museum.  Yes I know, there are some fantastic resources that will inspire you to go places you would never have dreamed of, and others which will help you really get off the beaten track, but at what cost?  Surely you can achieve the same by speaking to somebody on the road and asking a local?

I have to ask myself, would we have been escorted up Sigiriya in Sri Lanka by three policeman and then treated to a traditional Muslim family meal back at the Police Chief's modest home if I had followed Tripadvisor's things to do in Kandy. Similarly, would I have been asked by a couple of young Malay women to provide male company when they bought their daily fish supplies from the intimidating commercial fishing boats in the Pehrentians?

So, in our own crass unscientific way we decided to put our money where our mouth is. Zeke, a regular Tourdust writer, came up with a little experiment:

"Did you know you can book a flight on Ryannair without knowing which country you are visiting?"

Well, I didn't, but apparently it is true (I haven't checked), all he had to go by was an airport code with an unhealthy quantity of rarely used consonants. So before I could question his logic, Zeke had booked himself a ticket. Without knowing the destination it is tricky to buy a guidebook or to check out hotels on Tripadvisor.

The first part of Zeke's amusing journey is documented below - I've watched the video and still don't know the destination. Let me know if you can guess, because Zeke continues to refuse to let me in on the secret. He will be gracing these pages in the next week with the second part of the video. 

If this subject interests you there have been some fascinating posts and discussions on the general theme of staying connected on the road. Rolf Potts opened a beehive by critiquing the use of twitter when travelling, Stephen Chapman wrote an excellent piece about travelling unplugged and perhaps my favourite, a recent post by David Page wondering whether we are seeing the twilight of the guidebook? If you enjoyed Zeke's video and you want to see more of his frankly unusual sense of humour I recommend you check out his sites, http://www.tittybiscuits.com/ and http://www.smashingworkshop.com/. 

The formula for a perfect beach holiday

ben on 23rd March 2010 | 0 comments

What do beach breaks conjure up for you?  Hideous package holidays, towering apartment blocks and disturbingly familiar foods on the Costa Del Sol or exclusive beaches, prohibitive prices, raked sand and swaying palm trees disturbed only by city boys braying on their mobile phones?

In the words of the immortal Gavin and Stacey, to be honest with you, neither are really our cup of tea. But today, we are going to let you in on the secret formula to beach perfection.  'Beach perfection' is indisputably a factor of (1) Out-of-the-way-ness, (2) Un-exclusivity, (3) doped out travellers, (4) pitch angle of beach, (5) hawkers, (6) temperature and (7) mortality.  Let me expand:

F(Out-of-the-way-ness): The harder it is to get to, the better.  If it involves three hours on the back of a pick up truck on a rutted dusty jungle road then the signs are good.

F(Un-exclusivity): Exclusive beach resorts are hideous inventions that close the traveller off from the local people, economy and vibrant culture.  What you are looking for here are a few local restaurant options and an interesting little village to go and explore.

F(Doped out travellers): Too many travellers slurping magic mushroom shakes, furiously calculating during their brief moments of lucidity exactly how many weeks their bag of weed is going to last them means one thing - this beach was once a gem, but the druggy traveller brigade has moved in. Avoid.

F(Pitch angle of sea-bed): Don't ask, I had to remember sohcahtoa to work this one out. Ok, so here is the math, you want to get to 2m of depth for 15m of wading.  Any greater and you start risking waves (no good for floating on your back).  Any less and you will be wading out for half an hour before you can swim.

F(Hawkers): This factor is extremely sensitive to fluctuations above 1 hawker per 100 square meters per hour. Beach hawkers serve a useful function in providing fresh pineapple, cool drinks and massages.  However to be disturbed from your well thumbed copy of The Art of War more than once per hour is disastrous.

F(Temperature): Ah, a complex formula involving  the average daily temperature, the average fluctuation in temperatures and the difference between air and sea temperatures. Do not dispute this formula, it is fact.

F(Mortality): In its first incarnation the formula ommitted this factor, intelligent travellers applied their own mathematical genius and journeyed like lemmings to Port Douglas beach in Australia. Unfortunately a combination of a killer rip tides, estuarine crocodiles, deadly jellyfish, sharks and falling coconuts wiped out a whole generation of travellers.  So be warned, taking mathematical formulas at face value without an appopriate degree of scepticism can be severely damaging to your health.

For those wishing to apply the formula to find their own beach nirvana, the detailed calculation is as follows:

1. F(Out-of-the-way-ness): Must be GREATER THAN 2hrs from nearest paved road
2. F(Un-exclusivity): Must be EQUAL TO 0 exclusive resorts and GREATER THAN 3 local restaurants per beach.
3. F(doped out travellers): Must be LESS THAN 3 dpb (dope heads per beach)
4. F(pitch angle of beach): Must be EQUAL TO 7.6 degrees(from the horizontal)
5. F(hawkers): Must be EQUAL TO 1 hawker pch (per 100m2 of beach per hour)
6. F(temperature) Average daily celsius MINUS standard deviation of daily celsius MINUS Air to sea temperature differential must be GREATER THAN 20°
7. F(mortality): Must be LESS THAN 1 dpa (death per annum)

Unfortunately we can't show any examples of beach nirvana because if we did it would create a circular reference in the formula by adversely affecting the un-exclusivity and probably countless other factors too. Given this unfortunate absence of proof, we would like to pitch the following as examples of thoroughly good beach holidays you should consider for your holiday this year:

The hidden gem that is the Andaman Islands - Remote, hard to reach and boasting “Beach no. 7”, which, despite the prosaic name, has been repeatedly voted one of the best beaches in the world. To truthfully describe any tropical island as “unspoiled” is becoming increasingly difficult, but Havelock Island is one of the few still worthy of that epithet.

Eco beach lodges in Mozambique - Named by the Observer newspaper as one of the top 20 deserted beaches in the world. (Well The Observer got that one wrong because it isn't deserted, if it was how would you be staying on it?) Anyway, logical conundrums aside, Mozambique is the up and coming alternative beach destination.  There are a number of beach lodges boasting hammocks, ethical roots, reasonable prices and a chilled out vibe and this is one of the best.

A beach on a very special lake? OK this fails the un-exclusivity factor as there is only space for 14 guests.  But Mumbo on Lake Malawi is special. Perfectly located for combining with a little safari in Liwonde National Park or some blissed out kayaking and camping around the islands.

Blatant product push over, do you dare dispute the formula?

Images courtesy of Flickr User quinn.anya and bbjee

Peak District navigation course - A detailed review

DixeWills on 19th March 2010 | 0 comments

As someone who makes a living largely out of walking and cycling, usually accompanied by a map or two, I was initially concerned that I wouldn’t get very much out of this course. I confess that I lose my way from time to time and occasionally get myself completely lost, but I’d rather assumed that that was just part of being outdoors.

Apparently not. Indeed, as soon as I met Pete I had a feeling that here was someone who knew things that it would be useful to know. It turns out he’s been teaching navigation skills for over twenty years and has written a popular book on the subject so you’d be hard pressed to find someone better qualified in the dark arts of not getting lost. He’s also very friendly and patient and ready to re-explain anything that doesn’t go in first time, which is definitely a bonus.

The weekend National Navigation Awards Scheme course (Friday evening to Sunday afternoon) is based at the B&B that Pete runs with his partner Annette in Tideswell, an attractive village full of proper Peak District stone and independent shops and well worth a wander around. The three bedrooms (two doubles and a single) are on the small side but are very tastefully furnished (think boutique rather than Blackpool) and, if you really must, there’s wifi too. I sampled the veggie version of Annette’s full Derbyshire breakfast – the Derbyshire bit being a good wedge of oatcake – and it was delicious. The ingredients are locally sourced and the bread and jam are homemade.

As for the course itself, Pete is very thorough and makes sure that you’re au fait with map and compass basics before moving you along to more challenging stuff. By giving little tasks to carry out at each stage, everyone gets a chance to put all the new knowledge into practice.

I was surprised that right from the start I was picking up handy tips. For instance, I had no idea how many paces I took to cover 100m until Pete made me count them out over a measured distance (if you’re taking notes, I’m a 116-stride kinda guy). Now if I find myself in a pea-souper and I know from my map the distance to a left turn (or, hey, a cliff edge), I’ll know when to start looking out for it by counting my steps. Simple stuff but it might be the difference between getting home safely or not one day.

When we took to the hills (and this is a fantastic part of the Peak District – all dry stone walls and heather and rugged little hamlets) the compass really came into its own. I never realised before what a clever little instrument it is (or that a really decent one will set you back a thumping seventy quid). If you thought it was just for pointing north, think again. Pete even had me looking through the side of it (there’s a tiny world in there – it’s great) for super accurate bearing taking.

However, it’s not all stomping around the countryside glued to a map while checking the compass. When our route took us past the gorgeous Red Lion Inn at Litten it was Pete who suggested we pop in for a pint. Evening sessions are held in the convivial surroundings of The Anchor in Tideswell by an open fire and there’s some free time too when you can get to know fellow participants or escape to one of the village’s other pubs or restaurants.

Pete’s apparently limitless local knowledge also really helps you get to know and appreciate the area. In between the times when I was finding out the difference between grid north and true north I also learnt that a pig of lead found at Pompeii was mined by the Romans here; discovered the reason why there are so few birds of prey in the Peak District; and even discussed the best bands to have come out of Sheffield (Human League? Pulp? Arctic Monkeys? Err...Def Leppard?).

It meant that by the time I left I felt like I’d had a brief holiday here as well as a training course. I’m not going to claim that I’ll never get lost again but, if I do, at least I’ll have a pretty good idea how to get myself unlost.

The best bits about the Bronze Map and Compass Course:

1. Pete himself. He’s very friendly and wants you to succeed but isn’t at all controlling – he’ll step back and let you make your own mistakes. 
2. The fantastic scenery in this part of the Peak District – it makes it a joy to be out and about. You leave knowing you’ve picked up a skill that will be really handy for the rest of your life.

The worst bits about the Bronze Map and Compass Course:

1. The unpredictability of the weather – when it rains out on the hills there’s no hiding place. 
2. Tideswell isn’t the easiest place in the world to get to by public transport.

Creative commons photo courtesy of Flickr user the yes man 

Eco Retreats Review in Detail

Anna on 17th March 2010 | 0 comments

Deep in a hidden part of the forest in Powys, Wales, lies the beautiful and ever so slightly magical yurt and tipi site of Eco Retreats. To call this place a campsite is a bit like calling a glass of Champagne grape juice, it is so much more! Yes, it is camping to the extent that all that separates you from the very clear skies above you is some canvas.  However, with futons, luxurious bedding and a well equipped kitchen, this is a romantic, tranquil experience with all the fun of camping and none of the wet socks and communal toilet blocks. And with no other houses for 2 miles, you are totally off the grid. No mobiles, no wifi, no tv. Heaven. 

To access the site, you need to pass through the small Welsh town of Machynlleth. A charming place, complete with its own modern art museum, it feels like a haven for bohemian types, especially with the Centre for Alternative Technology, just on the edge of town.  Sadly we were in no position to linger and explore the cafes here, as we had three children in the back of the car who were starting to grizzle. Leaving the town,  the last one for miles (so the instructions to stock up on the way are well worth heeding!) we headed up into the forest.  Our instructions from hosts Michael and Cha Nan were very detailed and I’m slightly embarrassed to admit that in a rather gung ho manner, I decided that we were making fine progress, so just sat and enjoyed the view, rather than looking at their map. Minutes later we (may) have missed a turning and I was contemplating admitting that we might be a little lost, when we picked up some signs to follow. We drove along an unsealed road for quite a while and then turned the corner, the trees cleared and we same the most beautiful view I think I’ve ever seen. A lush grass valley, surrounded by trees, with a slight glint of white in the clearing. A tipi; my first! Getting excited now and with the children desperate to get our of the car, there wasn’t much time to meditate on the view. A quick drive down the hill and we finally arrived at our destination.  Met by Michael, our extremely charming host, we were taken to our accommodation. There are, in total, 5 tipis and 1 yurt on the site. Tipis can sleep up to 4 people, but with 5 of us in tow we were sleeping in the yurt. Having seen the majestic tipis from a distance, I was slightly disappointed, as they looked wonderful. However, the minute I set my eyes on the yurt my feelings changed instantly!

The tipis and yurt are dotted around the valley ensuring 100% privacy. The yurt is the farthest down the valley, with the tips set higher up the hill. Eco Retreats tries to be as green as possible, so once you reach the entrance to the site, you leave your car and complete your journey by foot. After 2 hours in the car, we were more than happy to leave it and jumped out with gay abandon. Stiletto wearers beware. You need to walk to your accommodation and carry your bags with you. It is a bit of a hike, but  oh so worth it. Sadly, as the Colcloughs are a bit of a travelling circus, we had a serious amount of baggage with us, meaning lots of to-ing and fro-ing to the car. Thankfully Michael helped us to lug our things, but I would suggest you keep your baggage to a minimum!

The yurt is a magical structure. Situated just above a bubbling stream, you won’t see anyone else for miles. Outside is a campfire and some logs to sit on. Wannabee cavemen and women, this is the place for you. A log pile, complete with axe awaits you, as well as an invite to gather your kindling from the forest. And to top it off, inside the yurt is a wood burning stove, so fire starters can have a dual fire lighting frenzy. Which is where we leave Ben. Meanwhile, the children and I explored the yurt.  The inside is plush and rustic all at the same time.  The bed is a futon, but is draped with luxurious bedding. On the floor are organic sheepskin rugs, perfect for cosying down in front of the (magnificent) wood-burning stove.  Cooking wise, there is a small gas stove inside, with all cooking utensils provided and a fridge box with freezer packs ready for your fresh ingredients. They have thought of everything here, with complimentary hot chocolate and a welcome hamper complete with locally produced organic mead wine.

As we were the only people staying on the site, we donned our wellies and after a mandatory paddle in the river, set off to check out the tipis.  Smaller that the yurt, the structures are made in the traditional Native American style. They are equipped with a cooker, utensils, chiminea and futon bed, with campfires outside as well. Like the yurt, they are all situated in entirely private sites. They also all have their own composting toilets and freshwater showers. These are solar heated, although not much chance of a hot one in October!

Back in the yurt and we tucked three very excited children into bed. Night time is when this place becomes seriously magical. There is no electricity here, so the entire yurt is lit up by tea lights in lanterns. This is not a place for hair straighteners and disco lights, but a place for romance and peaceful contemplation. Guests here usually have an evening meditation session and then in the morning, they can have a private Reiki healing session. Given that we had our children with us, we regretfully declined both. And this is where I have but one criticism of the place.  It is child friendly and you are more than welcome to bring your offspring, but I’m not sure you’ll want to.  Take the children camping in the garden, then leave them with their Grandparents and treat yourself to a weekend without TV, mobile phones and embrace your wellies and your romantic side.

Ballsy adventurers, decapitation & polar bears

zeke on 17th March 2010 | 0 comments

Ross Lee Tabak is a travel writer, photographer and author of the frequently exceptional We're Lost and Everything is Dirty.  Ross combines fascinating insights, punchy writing and sublime photography to drag the reader away from their laptop and into a completely different world.  We are lucky enough to be able to publish his frankly brilliant responses to our interview questions: