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Altitude acclimatisation needs to be taken seriously, especially if you are flying into altitude (that's above 2,400m or above) from a location at sea level. Your body needs time to adjust to the lower levels of oxygen in the air and needs to produce more red blood cells. This is particularly a problem in Peru as many travellers fly directly into Cusco from Lima, which is a jump of 1,800m.
Not everyone is affected by altitude, although most people will feel some differences for the first day or so. There is no knowing before you travel how you may be affected as it has no correlation with fitness. That said, if you have suffered before, you can expect to be more prone than others. Symptoms of mild altitude sickness include some or all of the following: headaches, nausea, shortness of breath, lack of appetite, dizziness and fatigue. It is important to remember that these affects are simply due to your body adjusting and whilst you may be feeling unwell, you are not actually ill. The best cure is to lie low on your first day of arrival, avoid alcohol and to drink lots of water (and, or) coca tea, a local homeopathic remedy. If you rest and resist the urge to go out walking, then within 24 hours you should start to feel much better. On your second day at altitude, you should start to feel your body adjusting to the altitude and should be able to attempt some gentle activity. By day 3, you will be in much better shape. We recommend at least 2 - 3 days acclimatising before you commence a trek.
Once you are out trekking, you are bound to feel the symptoms of altitude sickness again when climbing above Cusco's altitude to one of the high passes. Your headaches and nausea may well return and you will find yourself out of breath regularly, needing to make plenty of rest stops. This happens to everyone, including guides and porters and is nothing to worry about. Once you descend, your symptoms will ease off. The important thing to remember is to listen to your body and take the hiking at a slow and comfortable pace, it is not a race to get to the finish. And remember, your guides are extremely experienced and know the difference from mild and severe altitude sickness.
Some people find chewing coca leaves with a tiny amount if banana ash. This can be bought at shops in the Sacred Valley & Cusco. If you do find this helpful, please remember to leave your leftovers in Peru as it is illegal to bring coca leaves to Europe or the USA.
As well as the above, local remedies, there are also some over the counter prescription remedies to combat altitude sickness. Diamox can be prescribed and should be taken one day prior to arriving at altitude. However, this medication is not without its side effects (nausea and frequent need to urinate) which may end up more of a hindrance than the altitude sickness itself.
Do remember to make sure that your travel insurance covers you for trekking at altitude. Many policies include altitudes of up to 3,000m as a standard, but you may need to pay a premium above this height.
Tipping in the tourist industry in Peru is customary and expected. At the end of any tour, drive or meal, your guide or waiter will be most forthright in asking for their gratuity. Whether you like this direct approach or not, tips are relied upon to top up incomes and you need to budget for them. In hotels & larger towns, you can tip in either Soles or USD, but if it is the latter, please ensure that the bills are not crumpled. When tipping in rural locations, or on treks, Soles are more appropriate. Here is a guide to the amounts you can expect to pay.
You don't normally tip for a regular taxi ride. Make sure that you agree a fare upfront, the driver will have factored a tip into the fare already! For private drivers, a tip of $5 - $7 per passenger, day would be about right.
If you are eating at a moderate / lower end restaurant, then it is fine to round up the bill; most Peruvians wouldn't tip in this type of establishment. In higher end eateries, a tip of 10% is a good amount.
Tips for tour or nature guides do depend on the level of service you have received. $10 per person would be the amount you would tip for excellent service.
Tipping makes up for an important part of the porters income and whilst we try to ensure that the guides and porters used on your trek receive a good, fair wage, they still appreciate (and expect) a tip. There will be a tipping ceremony on the penultimate evening of your trek. This is the point when you will have a chance to thank your porters, cooks and guides. It is worth ensuring that you have sufficient soles with you for your tipping, in small enough denominations. Guideline amounts are as follows:
Porters: 60 - 80 Soles per porter from the group
Cooks: 80 - 100 soles from the group
Guides: 160 - 200 soles from the group
Please bear in mind that, depending on your group size, there will be 1 or 2 guides, 1 or 2 cooks and 10 - 20 porters. Porters don't just carry your baggage, but also all of the camping equipment, food and dining equipment. At your pre-trek briefing, you can ask how many porters are trekking with you. If you have any other questions about tipping the trekking team, please ask your guide.
Whilst most travellers head straight from Marrakech and out into the mountains for treks, there are several good reasons to sit back and relax in of the lovely riads in and around the Atlas Mountains. After the hectic rush of Marrakech, there are plenty of fantastic lodges to unwind and take in the fresh mountain air and incredible scenery. Most stay in Imlil, which is easy to get to and the perfect base for trekking expeditions. There are plenty of options in the mountains, but these are our favourites.
Imlil is a Berber village located in the High Atlas Mountains, about an hour from Marrakech. A beautiful village to visit in its own right, most of the visitors who come here are heading off for a trek in the mountains, or to Climb Toubkal, North Africa's highest mountain. At an altitude of 1740m, the village offers a welcome respite from the heat of the city in the summer. Dotted with walnut, apple and cherry trees and encircled by high peaks, it is an incredibly picturesque place, perfect for a couple of days soaking up the sun and views.
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The legendary Kasbah Du Toubkal, a stunning traditional building set in the heart of Imlil, fully deserves its reputation. Occupying a prominent spot in the Imlil Valley with majestic views of towering snow-capped peaks, traditional village homes and glistening far-off waterfalls. The roof terrace is simply divine and the traditional Berber salon easily the cosiest space in the Atlas Mountains when winter sets in (think country mansion library in Morocco). Some hotels have a je ne sais quoi and the Kasbah has it in reams. What this does mean alas, is that it is fully justified in charging high end prices for cosy but modest rooms.
Located in the village of Imlil in the Atlas Mountains, this riad looks directly at North Africa's highest mountain, Mount Toubkal. With beautiful rooms and sophisticated decor, this is the perfect to kick back and relax after some heavy trekking in the mountains. Riad Dar Imlil is situated just on the outskirts of the village by a small river, leaving you about a 5 minute walk to get into the village itself. Set over three floors, there is a spacious roof terrace with breath taking views and several lounge areas, complete with wood burners for cool evenings. There are ten rooms in total, meaning that it retains the quiet and laid back atmosphere that some of the larger hotels in the region can lack.
Le Village Du Toubkal is a new property in Imlil. There are 4 large bedrooms (soon to be six) and a large terrace, all with great views. The spa and hammam is very well done and rooms are furnished to a high standard. Although it is hard to find specific fault, as with many new properties, it does lack character and as such wouldn’t be our first choice in Imlil. Due to the size of the rooms (several of which could fit a double and 3 singles), it would be a good choice for families.
Douar Samra is an utterly charming modern and earthy take on the traditional Berber guest-house situated in a wonderful position overlooking the Imlil Valley. Comfortable cosy atmospheric rooms with small private terraces are set amidst beautiful gardens. There are large vegetable gardens, well-kept ducks and a donkey. The staff are lovely and clearly have a great affection for the place. The tree house is not quite a home run - a touch of Switzerland imported into Morocco that is not hugely in keeping with the remainder of what is a very traditional building, but a fun touch nevertheless. This is a place to relax and enjoy a good book in unpretentious surroundings. There are several terraces on roof-tops and in the garden, all with cracking views. Perhaps not surprisingly this degree of je ne c’est quoi comes at a price, the room rates are above average for the size of room, but taking the ambience, gardens and service into account, this is a fantastic choice for a mountain retreat and a fraction of the cost of the nearby Kasbah Du Toubkal which has some similar qualities at a more refined and substantially more expensive level.
If you are on a budget you can't go far wrong with Dar Adrar. This is the kind of place that independent travellers dream of. Great rates, superb food, a lovely ambience with plenty of space to relax on the rooftop, free wifi and reasonable rooms. What more can you ask for? Dar Adrar is situated almost adjacent to the Kasbah Du Toubkal.
Ouirgane is a small Berber village in the High Atlas Mountains, at about 1000m above sea level. A quiet village, located at the side of a recently dammed reservoir, it is said to be the preferred destination of the Royal Family when they choose to holiday in the mountains, and it is easy to see why. The winters are mild and the summers relatively cool and there is a constant tranquility. The red earth is criss-crossed by mule tracks and eucalyptus trees and juniper bushes line the dusty roads. The area benefits from several properties with pools (unlike the Imlil area).
Set against a backdrop of the High Atlas Mountains, Chez Momo offers rustic chic accommodation set in lovely gardens around a pool, the perfect respite after a long trek. Chez Momo was built in 2008, a replacement for the original inn, which was flooded when the government built a reservoir lake. Undeterred, the owners have built a sympathetic building, overlooking the reservoir and the mountains beyond. The accommodation is set in large gardens and laid out in terraces, with the swimming pool in the centre. The main house contains the reception, bar and restaurant, the individual rooms are laid out to the back of the property amongst rose gardens. This is a very tranquil place, with views of the mountains from the terrace. It is the perfect place to come to escape the hustle and bustle of Marrakech, or, even better, to reward yourself after a long trek in the Atlas Mountains. The swimming pool (unheated) will be especially welcoming after a long trek in the summer. Families with children are welcome here. This is not the most luxurious option in the area, but we love it because it offers a rustic chic feel - comfort, but not at the expense of authenticity.
Dar Tassa occupies a wonderful spot deep in the Ouirgane Valley and very much tucked away from the world. The views are simply stunning and the lovely terrace takes full advantage. In winter the lounge area is a cosy space great for lounging with a book. The Dar is well situated for some lovely day walks, and puts on a cooking class that some travel all the way from Marrakech for. The draw-back of Dar tassa is that the rooms are fairly middle of the road, twins with shared facilities are a little Spartan, and the suites, although spacious have little wow factor. This is a simple unpretentious retreat deep in the mountains, a cracking base for day walks, or just to retreat from the world for a while without breaking the bank balance.
There are several 'treat' hotels between Marrakech and the high Atlas. Easily reached, and at a lower altitude, they make a perfect spring/autumn sun destination. If you aren't keen on trekking and just want somewhere peaceful with a pool, then these places are perfect.
Kasbah Bab Ourika must have the finest setting of any hotel in Morocco. The Ourika Valley, whilst more densely populated and less suited to trekkers than the Imlil Valley, is incredibly picturesque, a broad valley with a stunning glistening river surrounded by snow-capped mountains. Everything about this place is just so, from the pristine vegetable beds to the elegant dining area and lovely pool set within the gardens, every angle is carefully crafted to take advantage of the stupendous view. There are more rooms than is ideal (over 20), but with so many separate spaces to enjoy it never feels that big. Of course, this degree of quality doesn’t come cheap.
Domaine Malika is a gorgeous 7 bed boutique guesthouse in the Ouirgane Valley in the foothills of the High Atlas Mountains. The stylish pool and gardens have stunning views over the mountains, a perfect small chic hotel to unwind after a trek.
Kasbah Angour is a slightly larger property than our usual preference (with 25 rooms) set within absolutely wonderful expansive flower & lawn gardens with great views of the High Atlas Mountains. The pool is impressive and the food we experienced was superb, with carefully arranged flavours and a degree of finesse. Bedrooms are large, relatively modern spaces, furnished simply, but to a very high quality, these are rooms you would happily retreat to in the heat of mid-day. The terrace dining area is lovely, the drawback is that the main dining room and lounge / bar areas do betray the scale of the operation a little. Set within the foothills of the Atlas Mountains and easily reached from Marrakech, this is a great choice to unwind at the beginning of a holiday in Morocco.
We have a deep knowledge of the Atlas Mountains so get in touch for advice and tailor-made travel arrangements including the Atlas Mountains.
Ben, Tourdust Morocco Expert
Email your enquiry to us at firstname.lastname@example.org or call us on 0203 291 2907.
We are open Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm.
Marrakech's medina is chock a block full of riads - traditional buildings built around a courtyard which have been converted into boutique accommodation. Located mostly in the winding derbs that branch off from the small market streets, these hidden oases provide a calm antidote to the lively souks. Don't be misled by their less than salubrious exteriors, riads tend to be upmarket, often luxurious affairs. There are simply too many to keep a track of, so here are some of our favourites.
A gem of a find in the centre of the medina. This budget riad has lovely traditional styling and a great location for the price. If you aren't looking for luxuries, this is usually our first recommendation. More information...
A lovely riad, with welcoming staff and its own hamman, located in the medina, north east of the main square. The four rooms are all beautifully furnished with fantastic bathrooms to boot. Riad Tzarra is situated north west of the Djemma El Fna, (the central square in Marrakech), about a 5 minute walk. It is just a brief 3 minute walk from the spice markets of the souk, which are a highly evocative part of the medina to wander around. The riad has four bedrooms, all of which have their own unique and individual style. The rooms all look out onto the courtyard and there are several communal areas including a lovely roof terrace decked out with sun loungers. There are also communal areas including a lounge with an open fire and a honesty box bar. For those wanting the full pampering treatment, there is also a hamman on site, where you can book a treatment. This riad is in a pretty central location and is located very near to one of the many mosques in the medina, meaning you may hear the call for prayer at sunrise. That said, the singing does not last long and is pretty evocative, so we wouldn't really see that as a hindrance. More information ...
A contemporary riad in the heart of Morocco's medina, Riad Adore offers stylish decor and modern furnishings in a quiet location close to the souks and the Djemma El Fna. Perfect if you are looking for sophisticated accommodation within the medina. Riad Adore is situated north west of the Djemma El Fna, about a 10 minute walk. The riad has five bedrooms, including one suite, all of which have their own unique and individual style. The rooms all look out onto the courtyard and there are several communal areas including a beautiful roof terrace (complete with open fire for cool nights and shade for hot days) There is also a small pool where you can cool off after a long day out in the souk and a lounge with an honesty bar. The first thing you need to know about staying in a riad is that they are all designed to face looking inwards over a courtyard, there are no external views - these are saved for the roof terrace. That does not mean that you will feel claustrophobic, all the rooms are very well lit and overlook the peaceful mezzanine or courtyard. This riad is in a pretty central location and has the added benefit of not being next door to a mosque, meaning you are unlikely to be woken up at 5 am by the call to prayer. More information...
If you want to go all out on luxury, then you might want to consider Winston Churchill's favourite hotel, La Mamounia. Located just on the walls of the medina, the hotel is named after the 20 acres of Mamounia gardens which were given as a present by the king to his son, Prince Mamoun. The hotel is, as you would expect and hope for the prices (starting at around £450 per night), extremely upmarket and geared towards travellers wanting a 5 star luxurious experience. Further outside of Marrakech, in the Palmeraie area of the city, there are many larger resorts, including spa and golf complexes, which offer large hotels with all the 5 star facilities you would expect. More info...
Tourdust can arrange your stay at any of these riads and combine with your choice of cooking classes, Atlas Mountain treks and visits to the coast. Email us on email@example.com with your enquiry.
'Excuse me, do you mind taking our picture?' Almost every time we take a walk past a London landmark someone stops us with this request. They then line up their pose in front of the famous backdrop (Big Ben, London Eye, a red phone box, Tesco) and strike their pose. 'Take two please. Just in case!'
Why do we insist on capturing a picture of ourselves wherever we travel? 'To prove we were there' is the most common reply you're likely to hear. But who are we proving it to: ourselves? Surely we can remember where we've been (although Paul Theroux might disagree if he believes his own over-used quote about tourists not knowing where they've been); our friends? Surely they don't require proof of the authenticity of our travel adventures, if indeed they care in the first place. So why do we do it?
I'm sure that part of the photo-mania that takes place at any famous photo stop is fed by those around us. Stand at the Trocadero in Paris and watch hundreds of people adopting the most ridiculous of poses in front of the Eiffel Tower and it's almost guaranteed that you'll soon be copying the masses. Whether it's a deadly serious photo or a ironic take on others' poses the result is the same. Those around you will inevitably observe and copy.
Peer pressure is certainly part of it: Everyone else is posing in front of the Taj Mahal. You'll probably never come back and if you don't take one now you'll always regret not having a photo of yourself here. Then there's the feeling of association that the picture brings. Look at that people-free photo of Sydney Opera House ten years later and it looks no different to a postcard. Now pull out the one you asked that strange American couple to take for you. You can remember the favourite fleece you wore (the one you left on a bus in Auckland the following month); you remember how brown you look after overdosing on sunshine up in Queensland; even the partner with you in your photo may be no more!
A photo connects a person, a place and most importantly a time. It acts as a gateway to a set of memories that can be otherwise locked away in our long-term memory. When we look at that photo taken at the Statue of Liberty in 2000 it's up to us whether we notice first that awful pair of glasses we had at the time or whether we observe the Twin Towers still standing tall in the background. The memories that our photos provoke are deeply personal and the same picture can tell a thousand stories. Putting ourselves in the middle of that picture just adds another layer of context to that captured moment.
So perhaps we should include ourselves in our travel snaps. As for the silly poses, I'm not so sure about those...