ben
on 29th June 2010 |
0 comments

At 4,167m, Toubkal is the highest peak in the Atlas Mountains and with this accessible non-technical climb being only a 90 minute drive from Marrakesh, it has become a magnet for trekkers heading to the Atlas Mountains. So the big question is, should you attempt it?
The lure of tackling the highest peak is ever present, but with so much trekking on offer in the High Atlas, is Toubkal right for you?
The Toubkal trek is typically done in two days. The first day begins with the relatively easy walk from Imlil along the Mizane Valley towards Aremd Village and the Muslim shrine of Sidi Chamarouch, followed by the tougher push up to the Toubkal Refuge, making around five hours walking in all. Most trekkers then aim to start early the following morning for the 5 hour scramble up to the summit (the trail at this point is a rocky scree covered path). At the summit, the views are incredible taking in most of the Atlas Mountains and on a clear day, the Sahara. The descent back down to Imlil takes around five hours.
It is possible to climb Toubkal any time, but spring is arguably the best. In winter the mountain is covered in snow and a skilled guide, crampons and ice axes are a must. In spring the weather is warmer and there is still some snow cover over the loose scree making for perfect trekking conditions. Summer and Autumn can be hot, and the scree is loose, but an early start makes it more than manageable.
Outside the winter months, Toubkal is accessible as long as you are reasonably fit and determined. No specialist gear is required and with a guide and mule to take the load the task is made much easier. Even in winter the climb can be attempted without technical skills - however you must ensure you have a suitably qualified guide and the right equipment. Toubkal is at altitude and altitude sickness is a possibility - albeit impossible to predict.
You don't really need any specialist equipment outside winter months, but common sense applies. You will need hiking shoes or boots with a full-tread sole and good weatherproof clothing, a good sleeping bag (these can be rented) and of course, a first aid kit.
There are two refuges on Toubkal (right next to each other), the Neltner Hut (Club Alpin Francais) and the newer Mouflons Refuge. Both offer fairly basic dormitory style accommodation.
One of the great conveniences of Toubkal is that it can be done in a 2 day trip from Marrakesh, fitting in neatly with a short break to Marrakesh. However, there are stunning valleys to explore and Berber villages to investigate (if you can resist peak fever) on trips of similar length. With these you will have more time to take in the scenery and culture. Read more in our guide to trekking in the Atlas Mountains.
ben
on 29th June 2010 |
0 comments

The Atlas Mountains are a 1,200 mile long range extending from the port of Agadir on the Atlantic all the way to Tunis and offer fantastic quiet trails and a great climate easily in reach from Europe. Read on to find out which treks are best for first time trekkers, peak baggers and the growing band of us who like to get as far off the beaten path as possible.
The Atlas Mountains are simply a mecca for trekkers, offering year-round trekking, dramatic scenery, crowd free trails and of course an insight into the intriguing Berber cultures in the countless delightful villages in the valleys. To cap it off, guides and mules (for porting luggage) are reasonably priced for the budget traveller.
The High Atlas portion of the range in Morocco are the most often visited, with easy access from Marrakesh making a High Atlas trek convenient for travellers planning a short break. Most people head for the Toubkal region. Toubkal at over 4000m in altitude is the highest peak in North Africa. It is easy to reach from Marrakesh (90 minutes drive) and boasts numerous trekking options from a couple of days in the valleys, to climbing Toubkal itself or a week combining the two. (Read our guide to climbing Toubkal here). Highlights include the stunning Tizi n'Tamaterte high mountain pass and numerous traditional red-earth berber villages surrounded by walnut groves.
Mgoun is the off the beaten path alternative to the more popular Toubkal region. Mgoun itself is just 100 metres short of Toubkal's peak and is considered a more challenging trek and arguably one of the best in Morocco. The M'goun Massif is more isolated and harder to get to than Toubkal and surrounds - so expect less trekkers and a rich insight into the tradional mountain communities. The scenery is more varied too, featuring breathtaking windswept high rounded peaks, remote villages, deep gorges, lush valleys and dusty red kasbahs. Treks in the M'goun Massig tend to be longer with the shortest trails starting at 6 days.
The Atlas Mountains border the majestic Sahara to the East, and a visit to the evocative desert landscape is a must. There is still plenty of scope for trekking but expect a good deal of touring by 4wd and camel too. The Dades Valley sits between the High Atlas and the Sarhro range and is often called the Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs (after the countless Kasbahs scattered through the valley) and the Valley of Roses (after the local agricultural crop). As you approach the upper reaches of the valley it closes into dramatic gorges, featuring the spectacular canyons of the Dades Gorge and the near-bye Todra Gorge at times just 10m wide and 160m high. The area is somewhat reminiscent of the Wild West in the States and is dominated by unusual rock formations. Erg Chebbi lies where the desert meets the Atlas Mountains - a huge windblown sand dune 22km long, 5m wide and in places 150m high. It offers an accessible and quintessential Saharan experience, trekking by camel and sleeping under the stars at night.
The Atlas Mountains are a year round destination and there is always somewhere in the range experiencing optimal weather conditions.
Marrakesh is arguably best in winter, spring and autumn, temperatures tend to hover around the 20C mark making for very comfortable conditions, whilst summer can see temperatures reaching 40C (still by no means inhospitable)
Jbel Toubkal is probably best in spring (Feb to May) when the snow is still on the mountains (covering the loose scree) and the temperatures are a little warmer than in the depths of winter. However, June through to October is still perfectly manageable at altitude. In the winter months the high passes and peaks are thick with snow cover and experienced winter mountain guides and equipment (crampons and ice axes) are highly recommended..
The desert regions of the Atlas Sahara are probably best in spring and Autumn, but again are suitable year round. Temperatures can get hot in summer (highs can exceed 40C) but the heat is dry and manageable if you pace yourself. In the winter, night time temperatures can be sub zero so a very good quality sleeping bag is a must.
The Atlas Mountains are only a 90 minute (65km) drive from Marrakesh, which has an international airport (served by low cost airline Easyjet amongst others), and is of course a fantastic destination in its own right. Most Atlas treks include pick up and drop off in Marrakesh within the price.
The price will depend on where you book. The cheapest prices will be found by meeting up with other travellers, using local transport and arranging services in Morocco. Expect to pay more if you book a package through a UK tour operator. You can book treks through Tourdust directly with a fantastic local Moroccan guide (at local prices) and expect to pay roughly 60 -100 Euros per person per day for guides, mules, food and accommodation depending on the trip and accommodation used. Most departures are privately arranged for groups of two upwards, but where available, single travellers can join onto existing groups and benefit from discounted group rates.
The number of outfits offering Atlas Treks can be a little bewildering. Registered guides have completed a 6 month mountain guiding course in Tabant (operated currently by the ministry of tourism and interior), but there are also many un-registered guides operating in the area. All of Tourdust's Atlas Mountain treks are operated by a professional and competent local team lead by Mohamed Aztat. Mohamed has 13 years of experience working in the Atlas Mountains and is a graduate of the Mountain Guides School in Tabant, The Royal Moroccan Federation of Skiing and Mountaineering and is an accredited wild country assessor for expeditions in Morocco. Mohamed has been variously described as "the best guide with whom I have walked" by Conde Nast, "One of the top guides in the Atlas Mountains" by BBC Radio 2, and "one of the star guides of the Atlas" by the Lonely Planet.
Accommodation for Atlas Mountain treks tends to be a combination of simple local guest houses, mountain refuges (boasting fairly basic dorms and cold showers) and Bivouac Tents. Thanks to the mules, the Bivouc tents are often comfortable traditional affairs with woven rugs and lamps rather than modern pop up camps. Many of our treks involve a stay at the Dar Adrar (also operated by Mohamed)
Availability doesn't tend to be a problem in the Atlas Mountains. If you are travelling alone, then it is worth being flexible on dates so you can join another group - otherwise prices can get a little high.
You don't really need any specialist equipment (assuming you aren't attempting Toubkal in winter) so it is a case of the usual, good trekking footwear, waterproofs and a good first aid kit. You can bring your own sleeping bag or hire one out there. As for experience, a determined attitude and a reasonable level of fitness suffices.
ben
on 23rd June 2010 |
1 comment
Our blog is approaching a year in age, and it seems a suitably apt occassion to warrant a round-up of some of our favourite posts from the year, if you missed them the first time round then I hope you enjoy!
Hope you enjoyed reading these posts as much as we enjoyed writing them.
ben
on 2nd June 2010 |
1 comment

The Inca Trail has to be the most iconic trek in the world encompassing dense sub-tropical vegetation, stunning mountain scenery and finally building towards the first glimpse of Machu Picchu through Intipunku, the Gateway of the Sun. Our guide to trekking the Inca Trail covers everything you need to know to begin planning your trip.
Peak season on the Inca Trail is May to September, coinciding with the western hemisphere's summer holidays. These months offer probably the best trekking conditions with fairly dry and sunny weather. However you will need to book as June, July and August tends to book out 3,4 or 5 months in advance.
October, November and December are also great months on the Inca Trail with fewer trekkers albeit with a fairly strong chance of rain on at least one day of the trek. Availability is also better, with spaces often available one month or less before departure.
The rainy season runs from January to March - so expect it to be fairly wet at times, however it is still perfectly feasible if you have good quality waterproof gear. Again Inca Trail permits are a lot easier to get hold of at this time of year. The Inca Trial is closed during the month of February each year for conservation projects - although Machu Picchu and alternative routes are open during February.
Availability is controlled by the Peruvian National Institute of Culture (www.inc-cusco.gob.pe). Their website is not going to win any awards for usability but it does contain information on Inca Trail permits availability if you look hard enough. Availability moves incredibly quickly so it is only really useful as an aid to planning. Your operator will book the permits for you.
Prices vary for the Inca Trail from $400 to $750 for the 4 day trek. This usually includes entrance fees, guide, tents (2 per tent), meals, porters (for the camping equipment, not personal gear) and the backpacker class tourist train back. At the lower end of the price range expect larger group sizes (16 people) and lower paid staff at the higher end expect smaller groups (8-12 people) and fixed departures - meaning that even if only two of you end up booking a particular date the trek will still go ahead just for you.
For those who like a few luxuries there are several premium inca trail options. Personal porter upgrades (aprox $60)give you a 7kg personal luggage allowance with the porters - meaning you can get away with only carrying a day pack, and on the return train journey you can upgrade from the backpacker train to the vistadome train (aprox $30) which resembles first class trains service with floor to ceiling windows. Alternatively there are luxury inca trail treks for about double the price of the standard trek featuring such luxuries as inflatable beds, wine in the evening, 12kg luggage allowance and the coup de grace a masseuse on hand to ease those aches and pains.
Only local companies are granted licences to operate on the trail so if you do book through GAP Adventures or other international operators, they will be using a local operator to carry out the trek - expect to be paying a higher rate for a similar service to that received from booking direct with local operators. Some international companies (such as Tourdust) act as agents for local operators and sell at the same rate you would pay if you contacted them directly. The advantages of booking through an international agent are that payment is easier and your money is usually protected in the case of the local operator going out of business (although you will always need to check this is the case).
Choosing which local operator to go with is a painstaking task, unfortunately Tripadvisor doesn't do a great job of collating reviews about tour operators, but if you are willing to trawl through the forums there are 3-5 companies which are consistently praised. Tourdust books through Pachamama Explorers for the following reasons:
Alternatives to the Inca Trail
If there are no Inca Trail permits available, or, like me, you would prefer to avoid the crowds, then there are a number of alternatives to the Inca Trail. None (except for the short Inca Trail) offer quite the same experience of Inca ruins and the spectacular approach to Machu Picchu via the Sun Gate, but are fantastic treks in their own right which include a day in Machu Picchu.
Short Inca Trail: A 2 day one night Inca Trail for those with less time or less inclination to trek for four days. This trek misses some of the best mountain scenery but does take in the spectacular approach to Machi Picchu. This trail is still subject to permits.
The Salkantay Trail: The 5 day / 4n night Salkantay Trail was named one of the 25 best Treks in the Worlds by National Geographic Adventure Magazine. Salkantay (Salcantay) is an incredibly beautiful if sometimes demanding trek that takes in a spectacular 4,600m pass over Salkantay itself. After three days of trekking you are transported to a hotel in Aguas Calientes for a guided tour of Machu Picchu.
Lares Valley: The Lares Valley trek takes you well off the beaten path through beautiful valleys and small traditional communities. The emphasis here is on exploring the villages, visiting the markets and seeing the locals produce wonderful hand-made textiles. After three days of trekking you are transported to a hotel in Aguas Calientes for a guided tour of Machu Picchu.
Choquequirao Trek: Choquequirao is often touted as the new Machu Picchu. It is believed to be the last refuge of the Incas and has gained in popularity since restrictions were placed on the Inca Trail. The trek itself takes in stunning mountain scenery and abundant inca ruins.
If you are planning on trekking the Inca Trail the following sites are superb resources:
http://www.raingod.com/angus/Gallery/Photos/SouthAmerica/Peru/IncaTrail/ A virtual tour of the Inca Trail by Angus McIntyre
http://matadortrips.com/how-to-trek-the-inca-trail A guide by Richard McColl who has trekked the Inca Trail five times.
http://www.panoramas.dk/fullscreen6/f2-machu-picchu.html A 360 degree panoramo of Machu Picchu
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2YBVlgqqco Michael Palin takes a tour around Machu Picchu.
The incredible shot of Machu Picchu was taken by Flickr user jayegirl99
An in depth guide to the history, stories and people of Machu Pichu, Peru and The Incas.
zeke
on 21st May 2010 |
0 comments

Everyone likes a good film. Box office figures for Love Actually suggest that loads of people like a bad film, too. But do you ever wonder where your favourite movies are shot? Apparently, I'm informed that directors other than George Lucas actually use real-world locations rather than CGI and green screen. Fancy that!

Robin Hood is the film everyone’s ta… no wait, not that one.
That’s better. Robin Hood is an ingrained British legend and part of our cultural heritage, so the current film incarnation of our favourite green English hero is played by an Australian putting on some kind of strange Irish accent. Naturally.
The film was originally to be titled “Nottingham” before Ridley Scott decided to give it the more accurate title “Basically Gladiator in a Forest”, which was then switched again to “Robin Hood”. As an aside, the writers received a seven-figure payment for their script, which Ridley Scott completely rewrote anyway, which makes me wonder why I’m spending time writing this.
Putting the movie’s inherent flaws aside, we can’t deny the fact that it’s well-shot and England is portrayed marvellously throughout. The latest Robin Hood isn’t filmed anywhere near Nottingham of course, rather the countryside and forests spanning the home counties (with a fair chunk filmed in Wales). If we get anything from this instalment of Robin Hood, it’s a reminder that the British Isles is a profoundly beautiful place, and we kinda need that occasionally as we bitch and whine about politics and the weather.
You may need some kind of rocket horse to get around the countryside efficiently - at the end of the film, Robin Hood manages to ride from Sherwood via the Vale of the White Horse (well actually a mash up of the white horse and Dovedale) to Freshwater Bay in Wales (posing as Dover Beach) within two days. Even if he had access to Motorways, which I’m pretty sure he didn’t, that’s over 260 miles of hardcore riding.

Che Guevara divides people pretty much down the middle. Either you think he was a freedom fighter and liberator of the oppressed, or you think he was a rhetoric-spewing dictator in his own right. I guess a third category exists for media students who don’t know who he is yet own t-shirts with his face on it.
Whichever way you slice it, The Motorcycle Diaries is a must-read travelogue and the film was pretty nifty, too - Machu Picchu features with prominence in both, leaving a profound impression on the young Guevara as he formulates his plans for revolution.
Whilst not everyone who visits this Incan site in all its glory is left wanting to stage a Marxist coup, its complex beauty is never lost on the multitude of travel junkies visiting it every year. Hiking the trail is bloody hard work (we’re talking steep climbs with all of your stuff on your back) but is more than worth it, to such an extent that it should be close to the top of any adventurer’s to-do list.
“Isn’t it a bit cliché?” I can hear you ask. Yes and no - yes, but for very good reason (it‘s phenomenal), and no because steps have been taken in recent years to protect it from becoming a cheesy tourist trap. Other than a few hundred years ago, now has never been a better time to visit Machu Picchu and possibly hatch a plot to overthrow the establishment while you‘re at it.
And would you look at that? We happen to offer the best Machu Picchu tour of them all, so click on over there to read more about this awesome World Heritage Site.
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“Frreeeeedooooom!” etc. etc.
Somewhat counter-intuitively, the majority of Braveheart was actually filmed in Ireland, particularly the exterior castle shots and battle scenes. This was mainly done to take advantage of Ireland’s tax breaks for filming, but all the gorgeous mountain scenery you see in the film is unmistakeably Scottish.
Notable Braveheart locations that I can pin-point in Scotland are the site of the set village where Wallace grows up, which is near the car park at the foot of Ben Nevis, and the mountain ridge he roams with his men while on the warpath (this is a spectacular, unbroken route connecting Loch Leven with Glen Nevis). The latter path covers ten mountains, and if you’re hardcore enough we reckon you could manage it in a day.
If it wasn’t for the perpetual lousy weather, Scotland’s beauty is pretty much on par with that of New Zealand and certainly has a bit more gravitas than the countryside in south UK. In saying that, it’s very easy to put the bad weather to one side and still have a great outdoorsy break - in a way the glens probably wouldn’t look right if it wasn’t tipping down (and the rain does stop eventually, otherwise how would the Scottish know that summer’s over? Ho ho.)
Personally, I love camping in Scotland in a tent which I may have constructed completely backwards but there is a multitude of independently owned, lovely B&Bs dotted around, usually owned by super-friendly couples who like to lavish you with hospitality.
As always, we have a hand-picked selection of Scottish holidays to help you take advantage of all the above covering a large range of activities and locations.
“FRREEEEEDOOOO…”
Okay enough of that.

Brokeback Mountain - a film that got everyone’s knickers in a twist, especially the knickers worn by dudes when their girlfriends weren’t around. These same dudes decided to throw a hissy fit when a mainstream film contained scenes of, shock horror, two guys going at it. Oh no!
The thing that irritates me about Brokeback Mountain is that the massive controversy created by it almost eclipsed the film itself. The acting prowess displayed by the late, great Heath Ledger and… er, Donnie Darko, or whatever that guy’s name is, was nothing short of brilliant.
The other thing about Brokeback which is manifestly brilliant is the cinematography. The story is set in Wyoming, but all filming was carried out in the Canadian Rockies - an obvious choice, given the sweeping and grandiose mountain panoramas. I mean, it’s just a classic example of how awe inspiring our planet can be, especially given its serene remoteness from modern civilisation. For the record I’m completely straight, but let’s just say if I was camping with Heath Ledger (he was a good looking guy, anyone can see that) in this kind of environment, the elements would probably fill me with so much love that I would probably… y’know, try it out. But only if he had that grungy look he had going on from “A Knight’s Tale”…
… Hang on, where the hell is this going? Jesus. Sorry.
Anyway, Brokeback Mountain is very closely based on a story by Annie Proulx, an extraordinary writer who has a gift for nailing individual characters, communities and their environments in one neat package and tied up in a succinct prose-bow. Brokeback Mountain is a killer example, but she also wrote The Shipping News… a phenomenal book and an okay-ish film, but the unheralded and desolate beauty of Newfoundland is captured in both.
You can delve behind the scenes of each world stage, since we have a multitude of Canadian Rockies tours and a hiking holiday in Newfoundland too (a personal favourite).
Wooooooaaaaaahhhh...

If I’d discovered this 3,544ft rock phenomenon in China, I’d probably be moved to make a multi-million fantasy epic too (I’d make sure the plot wasn’t as thin as tracing paper, though).
Looking like a CGI creation all on its own, the Southern Sky Column stands proudly in Zhangjiajie National Forest Park and became the basis for Pandora, the world portrayed in James Cameron’s drawn-out, eye candy yawn-a-thon. I mean, film.
Avatar is the biggest ever selling film in China, and as a result the National Park is doing roaring trade - so much so, authorities have renamed the massive Southern Sky Column to Avatar Hallelujah Mountain. The entire park is a jaw-dropping spectacle, so even without Avatar’s added publicity boost it’s little wonder why tourists flock to it in search for a taste of paradise. What’s more, you don’t have to wear silly glasses to see it in 3D.
Want to join the fight to save a race of indigenous blue people? Check out our featured tour of Pandora and/or China here. It actually covers the Tibetan Plateau rather than the Hunon region, but if cycling the otherworldly mountains of Tibet doesn’t impress you then maybe you should go watch Titanic again and come back when your standards are suitably lowered :P
Any great film locations you feel we should cover? Be sure to leave a comment and with your help we might be able to drag this topic out even further than we already have. Good times!
Zeke Iddon is a staff writer for Tourdust. He also writes for a load of other way less interesting people, but don't tell them he said that.