Experiencing a local Christmas

 

In the UK, we complain about the commercialisation of Christmas and the two-month build-up, but, oddly, you can’t help missing Noddy Holder and the smug TV adverts when they are gone. Here in Argentina, there are no cheesy Christmas songs on repeat in the shops; decorations are minimal; and there seems to be little excitement about festive TV programming. A lucky escape? Probably, but Christmas in another hemisphere still takes some getting used to, not least for the change in temperature.

For Argentines, the 24th – or noche buena - is the big one and in their typical style, it’s a late-night event. Come midnight people set off fireworks in their back gardens, roof terraces or, somewhat frighteningly, in the middle of the street (I once saw a car pull up at crossroads and have to wait as some pyrotechnics exploded a few feet in front). Parties then follow until the early hours, maybe even until dawn among younger groups. An Argentine friend yesterday told me how she once spent Christmas in the UK and was devastated when everyone went to sleep at 10pm on the 24th. They probably went off tiptoeing while leaving a carrot and glass of sherry under the tree, leaving her even more confused.

It’s interesting to think about the norms we get used to. Wherever we live in the Christmas-celebrating part of the world, our traditions are so drummed into us that it can be hard to leave them behind.

Likewise, some times you discover things and think, 'why don't we do that?'

Personally, I have my eye on spending a future Christmas in Provence, France. Their “gros souper” (“big supper”) involves a seven-course meatless dinner (which, according to some reports, is quite bizarrely inspired by Mary’s labour pains), followed by 13 traditional Christmas desserts, which represent Jesus and the 12 apostles. I don't think there'd be much partying until dawn after all that.

When you are away from home for Christmas, is it better to slot in with the local way of doing things or try to recreate home? Surely the latter always leads to disappointment?

Are there any traditions you have brought back home from your travels? The tree in my parents' house is now covered with decorations family members have picked up from around the world, from a sparkly kiwi bird from New Zealand to a Santa-riding-a-giant-raccoon from Canada. I don't think either are particularly traditional in their native lands, but they make for good memories.

Photo: Midnight on Christmas Eve, or Nochebuena, in El Calafate, Argentina by Flickmor on flickr

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