Adventure travel blog: Tourdust locally-sourced cultural & adventure travel

Travel Music: A Playlist for Travellers

ben on 9th July 2010 | 4 comments

Travelling always seems to be accompanied by a rich soundtrack, a background playlist that plays through the cafes, the hostels, the bus journeys and of course the bars we pass through. Much of it consists of a terrible pastiche of traditional music (think of the souvenir shop) and often hashed reworkings of western popular music. Likewise your Ipod is subject to whatever is the flavour of the day - so for me Australia will always remind me of Fat Boy Slim (yes, it was that long ago). More interesting though, is the music that talks, no, sings of a place - travel music. Travel music is the kind of music that, if you close your eyes, drags you away from a rainy evening at home to somewhere far more adventurous. This collection of travel music is a combination of trully great world music and songs which, although produced far from the shores of their subject, somehow manage to capture its spirit. So without further ado, sit back and enjoy.

The playlist is available on Spotify at http://open.spotify.com/user/bencol/playlist/1rCOZEZAUGmaLwBXw90MZX
1. Before You Go: Ramblin'Man by Lemonjelly
  A song for anyone with a spirit of adventure, this should by default, be the hold music for any travel company worth its salt. The song samples an interview with a fictional ramblin'man with a wonderfully gravelly voice that talks of too many late nights with a fine scotch. At times it is simply a recital of evokative place-names (67 places to be precise - of which I've only visited 20 disappointingly) but it ends with a line that will strike to the core of any itchy footed traveller, "and you are going to keep on rambling?" "Oh yes .... I have to"
2. At The Airport: Mad Rush by Phillip Glass
  A song for any transport terminal anywhere. Put you headphones on and float through the crowds as if you are starring in your own movie. This should actually, in all fairness to the genius of Phillip Glass, be served as a crescendo to some other Glass masters such as Knee play and the Evening song.
3. Moving On: On the Road Again by Willie Nelson
  This is the song that will play through your head every time you leave your last night's abode. There ain't nothing like packing up your sack, leaving a joint and never looking back. It doesn't matter whether you are hitch-hiking or climbing back into your rent-a-reck, it'll always be there with you. "on the road again...I just can't wait to be on the road again..."
4. Hawaii: Somewhere over The Rainbow by Israel Kamakawiwo'ole
  Sun, surf, warm evening light, swaying palms and the Uculele just about sums up Hawaii and this re-imagining of the classic Wizard of Oz ditty captures the spirit perfectly. The best and original uculele version is by the legendary Israel Kamakawiwo'ole, one of the most influential musical artists in recent Hawaian history. Unfortunately this version isn't available on Spotify so you'll have to do with this passable imitation.
5. US Road Trip: Silver Dagger by The Fleet Foxes
  Sun, surf, warm evening light, wait a minute we did that. This time it is blisfull sunshine filled rural USA that is evoked by one of the classic US folk ballads (dating back to the 19C) reworked by the heavenly voice of Robin Pecknold of the Seattle based Fleet Foxes. Perfect listening to accompany The Grapes of Wrath by John Stenbeck on your great American road trip.
6. Koh Samui or any other Thai Island: Pure Shores by All Saints & My Weakness by Moby
  I'm sorry. There, the apology is out of the way, if you ignore the rest of their back catalogue what you have is a song that (thanks to Alex Garland) evokes the feeling of leaving the heat and chaos of Ko Sahn road behind for the bliss of a hidden beach on Kho Pha Ngan. If Pure Shores lays the ground then My Weakness by Moby is the track you'll be listening to as you sit back on the tiny verandah of your ramshackle beachside hut, sun slowly slipping below the horizon...
7. Australian Backpacking Jaunt: Down Under by Men at Work
  Obvious maybe, but if you've backpacked the East Coast booze cruise (sorry travel route) then you are pretty much guaranteed to have yelled this at the top of your lungs whilst drunkenly caressing a bottle of VB. This song is an integral part of Australian culture, played loudly during the Sydney Olympics closing ceremony and also by John Bertrand's Australia 11 in their legendary defeat of the US establishment in the 1983 Americas Cup.
8. Southern Africa: Diamonds on the Sole of her Shoes by Paul Simon & Inkanyezi Nezazi by Ladysmith Black Mambazo
  Anybody who has travelled to Africa will talk of the mysterious alure to this great content, beyond the sights, the sounds, the smells. There is something about the combination of the huge landscape, colours, cultures and animals that is simply vibrant. This incredibly addictive trait is most perfectly enconsed in its music and Paul Simon's Graceland is the perfect introduction. I can pretty much guarantee that listening to this song for the first time wil be the start of a love affair with Africa.
9. Northern Africa: Sabali by Amadou & Mariam
  Beloved by the world music scene Amadou & Mariam are the superstars of African music. Hailing from Mali their music is everything that is great about the country which has an incredibly rich cultural and musical heritage.
10. South America: Me Gustas tu by Manu Chao
  Pick up anything by Manu Chao and you'll instantly be transformed to travelling in South America. Chao was actually born in Paris to Spanish parents but the music is pure Latin America thanks to years spent travelling in the region. Their finest work (imho) Clandestino was recorded whilst Manu drifted around South and Central America with his guitar and a four-track. Whilst many other songs on this travelling playlist evoke the blissed out relaxed moments, Manu Chao shakes you out of your turpur and puts you in the mood to party! Next time you laugh at the backpacker lugging around a guitar, think twice.
11. Spain: Bamboleo by the Gipsy Kings
  Ah the buzzing tapas bars, the heady late night culture and the joyful sounds of Bamboleo - you may not recognize the name, but you'll know it when it hits the chorus, 1.2.3 Bamboleo, Bambolea .......
12. The Amazon: Don't Trust the Dusty Fruit by The Ruby Suns and the Penan Tribe
  We all have much to thank Bruce Parry for, he produces probably the finest travel television known to man-kind (in the form of his Tribes documentaries) and he also pulled together an album joining great modern artists with Amazon tribes. This is perhaps the best collaboration on the album.
13. The Border Town: Tijuana Lady by Gomez
  Border towns are often dark and seedy places and Tijuan in Mexico is no exception. This much derided (and sung about) town is the haunt of drug mules, prostitution, and college kids from South California on a border bender to Mexico. In truth this song is probably a soundtrack to the morning after rather than the buzz the night before.
14. And finally, a song for when you have had too long on the road: Homelands by Nitin Sawhney
  We all reach that point when we have simply had too long on the road. The sense of wonder becomes jaded, nesting in Ikea is actually beginning to appeal on some levels and you'd just like a nice bed and a bit of space to yourself. For me this song somehow evokes that sentiment, managing to incorporate incredible world music influences from tribal India yet not really feeling like it is from anywhere.
If I could only choose one of these fine artists to populate my travel Ipod I would have to choose Manu Chao. Perhaps because it is so upbeat, and perhaps because he has travelled so much himself and gets it - Who would you choose?
The Amazon Rainforest - Choosing an Amazon tour

ben on 7th July 2010 | 1 comment

The Amazon Rainforest needs no introduction, but how to experience it? An area covering a fifth of the South American continent is pretty hard to encapsulate as a travel experience. And excepting biology and anthropology PHDs, in reality most of us are going to be looking at a fairly short encounter. Our collection of Amazon tours covers Ecuador and Peru, offering an opportunity to stay at sustainable lodges that support and are often owned by indigenous tribes, paddle deep into the tributaries of the Amazon, and learn about the incredible biodiversity of this fascinating region.

The Amazon River is the largest in the world by a country mile with an immense drainage basin that covers 40% of the South American Continent. From its source high in the Andes, the Amazon flows for most of its length through tropical Amazon rainforest (also known as Amazonia and The Amazon Jungle) before reaching its source on the Brazilian Atlantic Coast. The Amazon Rainforest's biodiversity is simply without equal. Amazonia represents over half of the world's rainforests reserves and unsurprisingly hosts the largest collection of living plants and species in the world. This diversity isn't just a result of its immense size either, the jungle is dense and this diversity is represented within small areas - one square kilometer there may be over 75,000 types of trees and 150,000 species of higher plants.

Beyond the mystique, flora and fauna, a highlight of any visit to the Amazon Rainforest is meeting and learning about the indigenous groups living in the area. There are still over 200 indigenous groups in the Rainforest speaking around 170 languages, with varying levels of integration with the outside world. Whilst some tribes live very modern lives, many have still had little or no contact with the outside world. Hunting, gathering, small scale agriculture and a deep spiritual connection with nature and rainforest are commonplace. Cultural tourism of this nature is always dangerous (in terms of its negative influences on the cultures it lauds) but where done right it can serve to sustain and support traditional cultures and knowledge banks and teach visitors about a different way of seeing the world.

Our Amazon Tours:

For a full listing of our tours in and around the Amazon, check our collection of tours in Peru and Ecuador.

Adventure in the Ecuadorian Rainforest.

The Amazon can be done in comfort, but part of the great appeal of the rainforest is the thought of experiencing pristine rainforest well away from tourist comforts and convenient board walks. You need to be willing to put up with a little discomfort along the way, but the rewards are immense. We'd recommend combining one of these tours with a visit to the Galapagos, making sure you have a little time scheduled in for some beach relaxation along the way.

Canoe Expedition on the Aguas Negras
Perhaps the ultimate Amazon adventure, spend 8 days paddling deep into the Cuyabeno reserve on the Aguas Negras river. This is not a trip for the feint hearted, expect long days paddling, very little comfort but expect a true insight into pristine rainforest on this expedition.

Cuyabeno River Canoeing
Our shorter, more accessible five day expedition on the Cuyabeno River in North East Ecuador. Hike in the jungle, paddle through flooded forests and visit local indigenous communities

Rafting on The Amazon
Three day trip rafting the Amazon in Ecuador. World-class white water awaits you, as do jungle canyons, thermal pools and a visit to a local indigenous community. Evenings are spent relaxing in a river side jungle lodge surrounded by excellent wildlife.

Kayaking the Amazon
Spend six days kayaking the Amazon deep into the rainforest to visit a local Huaroni community. Paddling through flooded forests, local guides will introduce you to the Amazon’s magnificent plant and wildlife as well as teaching you about their exceptional heritage.

Andes & Amazon trekking tour
Spend 7 days hiking along some of Ecuador’s most interesting and isolated nature trails, explore archeological sites, encounter indigenous communities & stay in fine historic haciendas and jungle lodges.

Experience the unique cultures of the Amazon Rainforest

Gaining an insight into the lives of the indigenous tribes of the Amazon is no simple task. The Huaorani Eco Lodge is a unique sustainable tourism project that takes you deep into the Huaorani territory. The lodge and programs were developed by the Huaroni communities, with the majority of development decisions and employment taken by the Huaorani. This tour would make a perfect counterpart to a visit to the Galapagos for those with an interest in cultural and eco tourism.

Huaroni Amazon Eco Lodge
Part of a unique project of sustainable tourism, this five-day tour takes you to the heart of the Huaorani territory for a fascinating insight into daily life whilst staying in a beautiful Amazon Eco Lodge.

Amazon Tours: Explore the Peruvian Rainforest

The Amazon Rainforest is a must do for most visitors to Peru. The rainforest here is probably as pristine as you can get. Put simply there are two regions to explore, Tambopata is easier to get to, whilst the Manu reserved zone offers a pristine rainforest experience for more adventurous travellers.

Explore Manu National Park
For a true slice of undisturbed rainforest, Manu's reserved zone is hard to beat. Expert guides lead you on a nine day journey staying at simple traditional lodges and camping along the way. This is not one for those looking for a boutique luxury lodge!

Rainforest adventure in Tambopata
Tambopata offers a bite sized slice of rainforest for less hardy visitors, the comfort is dialled up here, staying in a beautiful eco-lodge situated in the Tambopata Reserve. The highlight for most is the amazing sight of Macaws gathering at a clay lick.

Family Rainforest adventure in Tambopata
Take the family for a 5-day educational Rainforest expedition in Peru. This trip has been put together specifically with children in mind. Hike through the jungle, spot caiman in the river and learn about how the fruits of the forest are used by the local tribes.

When is the best time to visit the Amazon Rainforest?

The Amazon Rainforest is necessarily hot and humid. There isn't really such a thing as a dry season, as it is wet year round, but December to March is wettest. If you are planning a canoe trip, this is the best time as the rivers run higher, meaning you can penetrate further into the jungle on small tributaries. There is also more chance of seeing birds and monkeys by the river. The 'dry' season offers more comfort (less rain) and the chance to see caimen and migratory fish in the shallows. Bugs are an ever present feature of the rainforest and strong insect repellent, malaria tablets and yellow fever injections are usually necessary evils.

Inspiration and Resources

Anybody planning a trip to the Amazon simply must get hold of a copy of Bruce Parry's excellent Amazon series for the BBC. The series traces a route from the source all the way to the mouth in the Atlantic and is fascinating watching.
Toubkal - A guide to tackling Jebel Toubkal

ben on 29th June 2010 | 0 comments

At 4,167m, Toubkal is the highest peak in the Atlas Mountains and with this accessible non-technical climb being only a 90 minute drive from Marrakesh, it has become a magnet for trekkers heading to the Atlas Mountains. So the big question is, should you attempt it?

The lure of tackling the highest peak is ever present, but with so much trekking on offer in the High Atlas, is Toubkal right for you?

The route up Toubkal

The Toubkal trek is typically done in two days. The first day begins with the relatively easy walk from Imlil along the Mizane Valley towards Aremd Village and the Muslim shrine of Sidi Chamarouch, followed by the tougher push up to the Toubkal Refuge, making around five hours walking in all. Most trekkers then aim to start early the following morning for the 5 hour scramble up to the summit (the trail at this point is a rocky scree covered path). At the summit, the views are incredible taking in most of the Atlas Mountains and on a clear day, the Sahara. The descent back down to Imlil takes around five hours.

When is the best time of year to climb Toubkal?

It is possible to climb Toubkal any time, but spring is arguably the best. In winter the mountain is covered in snow and a skilled guide, crampons and ice axes are a must. In spring the weather is warmer and there is still some snow cover over the loose scree making for perfect trekking conditions. Summer and Autumn can be hot, and the scree is loose, but an early start makes it more than manageable.

What experience do you need to trek Toubkal?

Outside the winter months, Toubkal is accessible as long as you are reasonably fit and determined. No specialist gear is required and with a guide and mule to take the load the task is made much easier. Even in winter the climb can be attempted without technical skills - however you must ensure you have a suitably qualified guide and the right equipment. Toubkal is at altitude and altitude sickness is a possibility - albeit impossible to predict.

What equipment do you need to trek Toubkal?

You don't really need any specialist equipment outside winter months, but common sense applies. You will need hiking shoes or boots with a full-tread sole and good weatherproof clothing, a good sleeping bag (these can be rented) and of course, a first aid kit.

The Refuges

There are two refuges on Toubkal (right next to each other), the Neltner Hut (Club Alpin Francais) and the newer Mouflons Refuge. Both offer fairly basic dormitory style accommodation.

What are the alternatives to Toubkal?

One of the great conveniences of Toubkal is that it can be done in a 2 day trip from Marrakesh, fitting in neatly with a short break to Marrakesh. However, there are stunning valleys to explore and Berber villages to investigate (if you can resist peak fever) on trips of similar length. With these you will have more time to take in the scenery and culture. Read more in our guide to trekking in the Atlas Mountains.

Booking Toubkal:
1. 2 day / 1 night Toubkal Climb from Marrakesh
2. 5 day / 4 night Atlas trek including Toubkal climb
Atlas Mountains - A guide for the independent traveller

ben on 29th June 2010 | 0 comments

The Atlas Mountains are a 1,200 mile long range extending from the port of Agadir on the Atlantic all the way to Tunis and offer fantastic quiet trails and a great climate easily in reach from Europe. Read on to find out which treks are best for first time trekkers, peak baggers and the growing band of us who like to get as far off the beaten path as possible.

The Atlas Mountains are simply a mecca for trekkers, offering year-round trekking, dramatic scenery, crowd free trails and of course an insight into the intriguing Berber cultures in the countless delightful villages in the valleys. To cap it off, guides and mules (for porting luggage) are reasonably priced for the budget traveller.

Trekking the High Atlas Mountains

The High Atlas portion of the range in Morocco are the most often visited, with easy access from Marrakesh making a High Atlas trek convenient for travellers planning a short break. Most people head for the Toubkal region. Toubkal at over 4000m in altitude is the highest peak in North Africa. It is easy to reach from Marrakesh (90 minutes drive) and boasts numerous trekking options from a couple of days in the valleys, to climbing Toubkal itself or a week combining the two. (Read our guide to climbing Toubkal here). Highlights include the stunning Tizi n'Tamaterte high mountain pass and numerous traditional red-earth berber villages surrounded by walnut groves.
Alternatives to Toubkal - The Mgoun Massif

Mgoun is the off the beaten path alternative to the more popular Toubkal region. Mgoun itself is just 100 metres short of Toubkal's peak and is considered a more challenging trek and arguably one of the best in Morocco. The M'goun Massif is more isolated and harder to get to than Toubkal and surrounds - so expect less trekkers and a rich insight into the tradional mountain communities. The scenery is more varied too, featuring breathtaking windswept high rounded peaks, remote villages, deep gorges, lush valleys and dusty red kasbahs. Treks in the M'goun Massig tend to be longer with the shortest trails starting at 6 days.

Alternatives to Toubkal - Dades Valley, Todra Gorge, Erg Chebbi and Sarhro

The Atlas Mountains border the majestic Sahara to the East, and a visit to the evocative desert landscape is a must. There is still plenty of scope for trekking but expect a good deal of touring by 4wd and camel too. The Dades Valley sits between the High Atlas and the Sarhro range and is often called the Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs (after the countless Kasbahs scattered through the valley) and the Valley of Roses (after the local agricultural crop). As you approach the upper reaches of the valley it closes into dramatic gorges, featuring the spectacular canyons of the Dades Gorge and the near-bye Todra Gorge at times just 10m wide and 160m high. The area is somewhat reminiscent of the Wild West in the States and is dominated by unusual rock formations. Erg Chebbi lies where the desert meets the Atlas Mountains - a huge windblown sand dune 22km long, 5m wide and in places 150m high. It offers an accessible and quintessential Saharan experience, trekking by camel and sleeping under the stars at night.
1. 3 Day return trip from Marrakesh to Erg Chebbi visiting the Dades Valley and Todra Gorge along the way
2. 7 Day / 6 Night trip from Marrakesh to Erg Chebbi with more time for trekking in the Dades Valley, Todra Gorge, Erg Chebbi and Jbel Sarhro
When is the best time of year to walk in the Atlas Mountains?

The Atlas Mountains are a year round destination and there is always somewhere in the range experiencing optimal weather conditions.

Marrakesh is arguably best in winter, spring and autumn, temperatures tend to hover around the 20C mark making for very comfortable conditions, whilst summer can see temperatures reaching 40C (still by no means inhospitable)

Jbel Toubkal is probably best in spring (Feb to May) when the snow is still on the mountains (covering the loose scree) and the temperatures are a little warmer than in the depths of winter. However, June through to October is still perfectly manageable at altitude. In the winter months the high passes and peaks are thick with snow cover and experienced winter mountain guides and equipment (crampons and ice axes) are highly recommended..

The desert regions of the Atlas Sahara are probably best in spring and Autumn, but again are suitable year round. Temperatures can get hot in summer (highs can exceed 40C) but the heat is dry and manageable if you pace yourself. In the winter, night time temperatures can be sub zero so a very good quality sleeping bag is a must.

How to get to the Atlas Mountains

The Atlas Mountains are only a 90 minute (65km) drive from Marrakesh, which has an international airport (served by low cost airline Easyjet amongst others), and is of course a fantastic destination in its own right. Most Atlas treks include pick up and drop off in Marrakesh within the price.

How much does trekking in the Atlas Mountains cost?

The price will depend on where you book. The cheapest prices will be found by meeting up with other travellers, using local transport and arranging services in Morocco. Expect to pay more if you book a package through a UK tour operator. You can book treks through Tourdust directly with a fantastic local Moroccan guide (at local prices) and expect to pay roughly 60 -100 Euros per person per day for guides, mules, food and accommodation depending on the trip and accommodation used. Most departures are privately arranged for groups of two upwards, but where available, single travellers can join onto existing groups and benefit from discounted group rates.

Choosing a local operator for High Atlas Treks

The number of outfits offering Atlas Treks can be a little bewildering. Registered guides have completed a 6 month mountain guiding course in Tabant (operated currently by the ministry of tourism and interior), but there are also many un-registered guides operating in the area. All of Tourdust's Atlas Mountain treks are operated by a professional and competent local team lead by Mohamed Aztat. Mohamed has 13 years of experience working in the Atlas Mountains and is a graduate of the Mountain Guides School in Tabant, The Royal Moroccan Federation of Skiing and Mountaineering and is an accredited wild country assessor for expeditions in Morocco. Mohamed has been variously described as "the best guide with whom I have walked" by Conde Nast, "One of the top guides in the Atlas Mountains" by BBC Radio 2, and "one of the star guides of the Atlas" by the Lonely Planet.

Accommodation in the Atlas Mountains

Accommodation for Atlas Mountain treks tends to be a combination of simple local guest houses, mountain refuges (boasting fairly basic dorms and cold showers) and Bivouac Tents. Thanks to the mules, the Bivouc tents are often comfortable traditional affairs with woven rugs and lamps rather than modern pop up camps. Many of our treks involve a stay at the Dar Adrar (also operated by Mohamed)

What is availability like?

Availability doesn't tend to be a problem in the Atlas Mountains. If you are travelling alone, then it is worth being flexible on dates so you can join another group - otherwise prices can get a little high.

What kind of kit and experience is required to walk in the High Atlas Mountains?

You don't really need any specialist equipment (assuming you aren't attempting Toubkal in winter) so it is a case of the usual, good trekking footwear, waterproofs and a good first aid kit. You can bring your own sleeping bag or hire one out there. As for experience, a determined attitude and a reasonable level of fitness suffices.

Other useful resources
1. An amusing account of trying to climb Toubkal independently. Don't let this put you off…
2. A 360 Degree View from the Summit of Toubkal
3. A photoset of Atlas Mountains
4. Photo featured above is of the M'goun Massif by Flickr user Ryan Kilpatrick
A Round-up of a year of blogging

ben on 23rd June 2010 | 1 comment

Our blog is approaching a year in age, and it seems a suitably apt occassion to warrant a round-up of some of our favourite posts from the year, if you missed them the first time round then I hope you enjoy!
1. Zeke's Magical Mystery Tour or Why the web is ruining travel. Zeke travels to an unknown destination to figure out if it is better to travel without the copious reams of information available on the web.
2. Cheap Destinations for the travelling stomach. We all know about Rome, Paris, San Sebastian, but which destinations are best for the foody on a budget?
3. A mashup of GPS, photos and travelogue in our review of a Hebridean wildlife cruise. After a wonderful week spent hiking and cruising in the stunning Hebrides I set to put my Android phone equipped with GPS to test - here is the result.
4. Flickr is an incredible source of inspiring images, this year we featured three posts using this fantastic creative commons resource. Extraordinary ways to handle excess luggage, A photo guide to the Atlas Mountains and collection of stunning mountain imagery featuring fantastic hiking destinatons.
5. Pretty much every traveller is on the search for a perfect beach, we decided to see if we could boil the essence of the perfect beach down to a mathematical formula.
6. The Inca Trail is probably the trek on the top of travellers must do lists. We take an honest look at how best to go about booking it.
Hope you enjoyed reading these posts as much as we enjoyed writing them.